Please inspect before printing.

All printed parts, no metal hardware, complete skeleton, fully detachable parts, no AMS required, 20cm tall, 34 points of articulation.

The fit may require adjustment. If it's too loose or too tight, you'll need to trim the parts yourself, or fine-tune the component dimensions by ±1%, 2%, or 3%. If the waist joint is loose, you can apply some glue to fix it, as there's another joint below the chest that should be sufficient. Since the shoulder armor, lower legs, and ankles have spiked decorations, they can easily prick you when posing. You can use pliers to blunt the spikes. If it's for children, please make sure to trim the spikes.

The configuration is for the A1mini. Simply change the machine in the upper left corner. The first four trays are for the skeleton parts. To prevent mixing up the peg positions and to facilitate later adjustments to the fit, print each tray and assemble one part at a time. The later trays are for the outer armor parts. You can arrange the outer armor parts yourself and print them on one tray to save time. Choose your own color scheme; I used R3D's white and silver for the outer armor.

The hand shapes are compatible with other weapons on the homepage.

I also have TPU skeleton replacement parts, more customizable hands, and other weapons available on my homepage. You can print them out if you're interested.

In short, this isn't a very easy model to print and assemble. Ball joints are prone to wear and loosening, so most joints are pivot joints. Due to differences in machine materials, you might need to fine-tune part dimensions in slicing software. If you don't know how, you can learn online. You might also need to apply glue to the printing plate or repair sprue marks. After all, it's 3D printed, so it's definitely not the same as machine injection molding. You'll need to investigate any issues; as long as it can be assembled and move, that's fine.