M-Jet 30 - 3D Printable Jet Drive for RC Boats

M-Jet 30 - 3D Printable Jet Drive for RC Boats 3D print model

Description

Join the official M-Jet facebook group! https://www.facebook.com/groups/623045356071128

Complete propulsion system for RC Boats.

You get 12 STL files for 12 parts of the jet drive, designed to be FDM 3D printed with no supports. You also get a STEP file of the whole pump, ready to be edited to your needs. You can assemble it and install it into your RC boat.

COMPLETE PDF MANUAL: https://drive.google.com/open?id=10guq2Laz8EfP5fF6TGrs1q0CErPBnrqk

Includes part list, print settings, assembly and installation guide.

M-Jet 30 features:

2-stage configuration, meaning it has 2 impellers and 2 sections of stator vanes. They give the pump better overall handling, consistent performance and instant priming (the delay between the moment when the intake is in contact with water and the moment when it actually starts pumping the water). This is the only way I have found to achieve life-scale jetsprint handling on a RC boat.

Ball steering. It is my new system where the servo is connected directly to a rotating shaft, instead of a pushrod. The advantage of this system is the simplicity - there are only 2 moving parts in total. Therefore, there are also less joints between the moving parts, which reduces the backlash. It uses a rubber O-ring as a seal around the steering shaft instead of a traditional rubber bellow. When you need to do some maintenance, for example change the servo, you only have to loosen the servo coupler and slide the shaft out. The range of movement of the shaft is exactly 60 degrees left and right, so there is no need to set the range of the servo movement on the transmitter.

Integrated ride plate. Many of my previous boats suffered from hopping when achieving higher speeds and this feature has finally solved all these problems. The ride plate lifts the stern of the boat and keeps the bow down, which stops the hopping effect completely. It is adjustable with a single screw - the same way as you would set trim tabs on a prop boat. In addition, it has four blades, which help with sharp cornering and prevent spin-outs. However, if you do not like this feature, you can just uninstall it and never use it.

Integrated watercooling. The water is pushed into a water channel in the Second stage, through a channel in First stage and the Housing, where a silicone tube is connected. Then the cooling loop goes back through the Housing and out of the boat from an outlet. The outlet is angled upwards so that you can control if the cooling works properly.

Integrated removeable intake grate. If your pump sucks grevel and you need to remove it from the impeller, just unscrew one screw and remove the intake grate to be able to access the impeller.

Rear installation.This jet drive is not glued into the hull from the inside like almost all other pumps. Instead, you cut a simple square hole (no difficult circle shapes!) and slide the pump into the hull from the rear. Therefore the thrust force of the pump pushes directly on the stern, instead of pulling the pump away from the glue. This method is much simplier than any other method I have tried. If you are wondering how exactly it works, check the manual listed above.

Performance: The jet drive achieves 3600g thrust at 20000RPM, my motor uses 1200W. However, it is important to understand that static thrust is not the only parameter that determines the performance of the pump: thrust decreases, as speed of your boat increases. Therefore, I also calculate the exhaust velocity using the Thrust equation (Force = mass flow * exhaust velocity). Exhaust velocity is the speed the water leaving the nozzle. Exhaust velocity of this jet drive is 11.9 m/s. The higher the velocity, the smaller the thrust drop at higher boat speed, therefore more top speed. I believe I have found a good balance between thrust and top speed with this pump.

Update 10. 5. 2020: Two parts of the steering assembly, Ball and Servo coupler, were changed for better strength and grip on the steering shaft.

Update 4.11.2020: These parts have been further reinforced.

Update 18.1.2021: The M-Jet was renamed to M-Jet 30.

Update 14.9.2021: A new folder Mods_for_M-Jet_30 was added to the files, including a single blade impeller design mod. It requires more testing on this pump, but was found to dramatically improve efficiency on a different pump.

Update 13.11.2022: The model description was slightly updated.

Update 18.1.2023: STL file for a single stage impeller (to make the pump work without first stage) was added into the mods folder. Steering shaft will not work properly and the impeller hub does not have the correct size, but it can be an interesting experiment for you to test.

Update 3.6.2023: STEP file of the whole pump was added with the M-Jet_30_STEP_file folder.

M-Jet-Development
M-Jet-Development 2024-02-06 12:05:41 UTC
No, the Valkyrie is only compatible with the M-Jet 35. But you can use the M-Jet 30 with Ragnarok: https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/other/ragnarok-3d-printable-rc-jetsprint-boat
C
cobalt700 2023-08-26 14:05:34 UTC
Hi, Nearly finished printing the drive and about to start testing. I was wondering if you would be able to add some lower pitch impellors? I would like to run this with a 2845 motor (in an NQD tear into hull) don't really need all the speed and power, just want a reliable jet drive :) Thanks!
M-Jet-Development
M-Jet-Development 2023-08-26 14:36:05 UTC
I understand your thought behind this idea, but even reducing the pitch dramatically will not decrease the motor load enough for you to use a 2845 motor efficiently. The diameter of the impeller (30mm) is just way more important than pitch, and for a 2845 motor 30mm is too much. My best suggestion would be to use the single blade impeller mod - the power consumption will not get any lower than that.
C
cobalt700 2023-08-26 18:11:49 UTC
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly with advise. I will try with the single blade setup and see how it does. If that isn't enough, I will look at re-moddeling the drive to make it smaller.
M
mijazagorulko 2023-08-23 20:11:22 UTC
I would like to know if a similar water cannon is for a smaller size. I wanted to put it on my boat but it's too big (
T
todshiner 2023-03-05 14:38:34 UTC
I made the M-Jet30 in 2020. I never came up with a great hull for it. I moved on to other projects with jet pumps. None of them compare to the output of this pump. But I'm wrong now there is the new 35. I have 2 questions for you. 1) Are you going to make a hull for these jets? I am making the Sprint now. 2) On my full size boat the outdrive has 2 counter-rotating propellers. I know a shaft inside a shaft (tube) would be hard to do, but what about making the second impellers blades pitched the oposite direction? This cancels out the swirl of the water leaving. I know it doesn't make any sence but its worth looking into. I could go on a long time talking about it. It works without a loss in speed.
M-Jet-Development
M-Jet-Development 2023-03-05 16:51:11 UTC
Hi, to date I haven't designed any 100% 3D printable hull for M-Jet 30 or M-Jet 35. There is the free 4G hull design ( https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/automotive/4g-sprint-hull-for-rc-boats-2022 ), but that requires working with fibreglass or carbon fiber. Some guys in the M-Jet facebook group are building it. I might design a 100% 3D printable hull for M-Jet 35 in the future, but so far I am not working on anything like that. Thank you for sharing your second idea with the counter rotating propellers. I believe they work really well on full size boats. You are right that they could possibly remove the swirl, and as a consequence, not require any stator vanes. But it would be nearly impossible to build such system at the scale / size of my jet pumps. The shaft and the outer tube would have to spin 40 000 RPM relative to each other (20000 RPM each) and that would require a very well lubricated joint or a complicated bearing assembly. Even if that was manageable, spinning the shaft and tube in opposite directions would require a gearbox with probably at least 5 gears in total, creating so much complexity and friction, that the result would end up not being worth it.
T
todshiner 2023-03-05 14:38:31 UTC
I made the M-Jet30 in 2020. I never came up with a great hull for it. I moved on to other projects with jet pumps. None of them compare to the output of this pump. But I'm wrong now there is the new 35. I have 2 questions for you. 1) Are you going to make a hull for these jets? I am making the Sprint now. 2) On my full size boat the outdrive has 2 counter-rotating propellers. I know a shaft inside a shaft (tube) would be hard to do, but what about making the second impellers blades pitched the oposite direction? This cancels out the swirl of the water leaving. I know it doesn't make any sence but its worth looking into. I could go on a long time talking about it. It works without a loss in speed.
Item rating
37 1
A
andrew131 2024-03-04 16:20:21 UTC
Recommended
Very nice file package with instructions.
L
lpense59 2024-01-08 01:43:56 UTC
Not Recommended
Bought the print files but wont download
M-Jet 30 - 3D Printable Jet Drive for RC Boats
$10.00
 
Editorial No Ai License 
M-Jet 30 - 3D Printable Jet Drive for RC Boats
$10.00
 
Editorial No Ai License 
Response 93% in 1.6h

3D Model formats

Format limitations
  • PDF (.pdf)5.49 MB
  • Stereolithography (.stl) (3 files)12.2 MB
  • STEP (.stp)639 KB

3D Model details

  • Publish date2020-04-17
  • Model ID#2368560
  • Ready for 3D Printing
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