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Small scale - resin.\nThe model is combined, all the main parts are presented as separate parts, so they are easily modified or removed. \t\nThe *.stl files are in the *.zip archive. \t\n\nSpecs: •1/24 •1/25 •1/28 •1/32 •1/43 •1/48 •1/64 \nThe model includes: • Body • Wheels • Tires • Skeleton, HotRod, Skull.\n\n**Attention:\n-For experienced model builder\n-Parts could need some adjustments with files or sand paper\n-Take care when you remove the supports\n-Parts should be glued.\n-Not recommended for kids\n-Be careful with the alignment of pieces when gluing.\n-Could need some sanding/ adjustments/ cuts / scratch built parts to fit your chassis / model kit / Wheels\n-Check dimmensions of your model before printing\n\nUnleash the Ghoulish Gearhead! This highly detailed, print-ready STL file set brings a bone-rattling hot rod driver right to your 3D printer. Featuring a grinning skeleton in a snappy top hat and a classic green rod with a terrifying skull engine block.\nKey Features \u0026 Facts:\t\nModular Design: Separate parts allow for easy multi-color printing (like the green body, orange hat, and skull engine).\nIdeal for Display: Perfect as a unique shelf piece, a spooky garage mascot, or a thrilling desktop companion. 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If you find your 3Dponics system to be a bit loud, print 3Dponics silencer attachment.   \u003cbr\u003e\r\nPlease support our Kickstarter campaign to make 3Dponics even more accessible: \u003ca href=\"https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/3dprintler/3dponics-community-for-crowdsourced-3d-printed-hyd\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"\u003ekickstarter.com/projects/3dprintler/3dponics-community-for-crowdsourced-3d-printed-hyd\u003c/a\u003e   \u003cbr\u003e\r\nFor less than just one penny a day, you can: grow your own fresh, organic foods and do something good for the environment by recycling plastic bottles; reduce food waste by picking only what you’ll consume; and do so even in a small city apartment. 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You are invited to participate and share\nFiles are also in STEP format so you can build upon them.\nFiles include motor pods for all the versions of the plane created. Also the parts for the two tails (V and normal are included)\n\nBelieve it or not, I didn't know anybody who had got sick with COVID until my girlfriend did,  and now I am stuck at home for the next ten days, so I have have plenty of time to write my story here, and fortunately and most important, I'm healthy. So enjoy.\n\nI don't know if the problem is that I'm a terrible pilot or a terrible builder, but I have had my fair share of 50 hour builds followed by 5 second flights. If the maiden flight is also the final one, and that happens more often than not, it's a moment to reconsider what you're doing. and how you're doing it.\n\nSo 3D printing planes looked like a good idea, at least theoretically. Planes basically get done by themselves and geometries are always perfect, right?  Not, so. Not for me, at least.\n\nThose thin walled one perimeter parts are difficult to produce, so failed prints and rejections are a normal, printing takes forever, postprocessing and glueing is not so fast neither that easy and the final result, though beautiful, is everything but resilient.\n\nSo I've decided I'm making my own design and here are the constraints it will have to accomplish:\n1-Fast and Easy to build\n2-Cheap, Very cheap\n3-Survivality- Must be resilient, hardy, endurable\n4-Small enough and big enough for whatever\n5-Easy to work with, adjust and setup\n6-Design must be easy to modify\n\nWell, that's a lot, I guess, isn't it? But at least I'm not asking it to be pretty. So I thought I might as well look for advice here and publish the design I am working on. Maybe something nice can be done 'with a little help of my friends'...\n\nOf all the constraints I have set for the design, the one most confusing is number four. Small enough and big enough for what? Small enough to be flown indoors and big enough to be flown outdoors. Small enough so it can be taken to the field riding a motorbike instead of a car, big enough so it can carry an FPV set aboard,... I suppose you get the idea and you're thinking about a certain size. So did I. I could do with detachable split wings, but has to be a pretty small plane, mainly because small planes survive crashes better, I guess.\n\nAs I have basically very little idea about plane designing, or aerodinamics, or the Reynolds number, or any of that things that you people are familiar with,  I am relying in the following ratios that were given to me by someone whom I believe is wiser than me. He said:\n \"the aspect ratio would be 5:1 so the chord would be a fifth of the wingspan.The fuselage would normally be 75% of the wing spanNose to leading edge is around 20%\nTrailing edge of wing to horizontal stab 20% (of which the horizontal stab area would be 20% of the wing).\nThe Vertical stab is usually 1/3 or 33% of the horizontal stab area etc etc\"\n\nObviously, the worrysome part is the \"etc, etc\" that hints there are a huge number of aditional things that I should know but I don't. Anyway, I'm going on with what I have. The design should be easy to modify, shouldn't it?\n\nSo here I go:\n\n1st iteration\n\nWingspan 50 cm - Weight 55 g incl Batt (18 g)\nSurfaces - Wing 500 x 90 mm Tail 2 units x 80 x 60 mm - 90º\nMain Fuselage is a 300 mm rod\n\nDesign is a mixed construction of 3D printed parts, carbon fiber rods and foamboard. Originally I intended to usesome thin foam from disposable dishes or trays but I guess they have been banned for environmental concerns or something, because I can't find them anymore. Everything disposable is made out of paper or plastic, and the foam I find (like the one in McDonalds foam boxes) is just too small. I don't even have 3 mm foam board. I will use 5 mm instead. I hope I will find something more suitable later.\n\nWhen my girlfriend has seen it, she has said \"it looks like a wasp\". It really doesn´t, but as I need a name to write in the TX menu, this one sticks.\n\nPrinted with PETG. Wheel Tire with TPU\nRods are Carbon Fiber 2 mm and 1 mm\nSurfaces are 5 mm Foamboard though they shouldn't be.\nI am using an RX brick with two 1g servos and a built in 3A DC ESC. First thing I`ve learnt is that servos are perhaps too small. I have made everything work perfectly but it has required a very fine adjustment of the control rods and perfect hinges. I've made the control rods with .5 mm piano wire and 1 mm CF\n]The RX brick has also brought alongside the V tail, because it's easy, convenient, I've never tried one and why not.\nMotor is brushed 8.5 x 20 mm. Motor, gearbox (aprox 6:1?) and prop (135 mm diam, no more data) come from an old HUBSAN 502 Drone, All these parts that can be found easily as spares in Aliexpress.\nBattery is a 250 mAh 1S\nLanding Gear is 1 mm piano wire\n\nAfter the first Flight Test\nIt lacks power. A little problem here because although the Hubsan dron worked with 2S batteries, the brick works with max 5 volts, so I cannot raise the voltage of the motor without burning the brick. I need a buck converter and another DC ESC that can handle more volts\n\n2nd iteration\n\nwingspan 50 cm weight 80 g including batt (24 g)\n\nNo buck converter for the moment. I changed the motor for a brushless 1103  with a 3018 two blade prop\nHad to throw in a 12A ESC with a 5V BEC to feed the brick.\nBatt is 350 mAh 2S\nIt's a pitty because I liked the old arrangement of the gearbox. I'll try to go back to it because I guess that a bigger slow rotating propeller will help making it a slow flier, but this is just an intuition.\n\nAfter the first Flight test\nWell, it's got power enough to fly. Climbs with ease.\nI had it in the air maybe a full minute before I crashed it into the only rock that was around.\nTruth is that I crashed it because of bad piloting. I did not set any low rates nor expo in the TX and the plane was overreacting all the time. I though it wouldn't be so bad with such small control surfaces, but... Maybe the CG was behind where it should be and that's why the plane was so touchy.\nAt least it flies.\n\n3rd iteration\n\nWingSpan 51 cm Weight 95 g incl batt (24 g)\nSurfaces - Wing 500 x 90 mm Tail 140 x 60 mm + 65 x 60\nMain Fuselage is a 300 mm rod\n\nNew airframe, but it's not that the other one is broken or anything. Easier to make a new one than to disassemble the other.\nI have changed the wing supports, so wing now is held in place with elastic bands instead of glued. I hope I don't crash into the same rock again, but if I do, this time I don't want to glue the wings again.\nI have abandoned the brick and installed a micro 8 ch RX\nI have installed 1,5 g servos that look much stronger than the ones in the brick\nI have abandoned the V tail and put a normal elev + rudder instead\nI have also installed ailerons in the wings\nPower plant, I bought an ESC for a DC motor and a buck converter to feed the RX and the servos so I can have 8V in the motor and not smoke the rest of the gear\nI have installed again the Hubsan brushed motor with the gearbox and the 135 mm prop\nI have also installed an FPV combo (Eachine TX03)\nBatt is 350 mAh 2S\n\nSomething strange while testing. It looks like the ESC does not work well. I'd say that the motor goes from zero to full power with nothing in between. It's the first time I install a DC ESC, so I am not sure about it. Also, I am not sure if the prop rotates as fast as it should with a 2S batt, If anybody can give some advice about this ESC I'll be grateful. It's the one in the picture.\n\nI have already seen a couple of things that I'd like to change, like putting the rudder hinge in the same side as the servo and mounting the aileron servos on the top of the wing instead underneath it (i don't know if I'll change that one)\nOf course you'll see in the pictures that the wiring is all loose. I will fix it all when I deal with the rest of the issues\n\nAnd now that's it. No more flight tests until I can get out of my house\n\nOn the bright side, last time I went to in the supermaket I found some trays made of black foam that look good for my purposes. 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This derivative includes a few tweaks and notes that I used to make printing and assembly easier as well as a parametric spool holder created in OpenSCAD.\u003c/p\u003e\u003ch1 class=\"thing-component-header custom instructions\"\u003eInstructions\u003c/h1\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe spool currently in my holder has a diameter of 16.5cm and a depth of 9.5cm and as such the following measurements have been based around that.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eParts:\u003cbr\u003e\r\nM8 Rod (156cm)\u003cbr\u003e\r\nM8 Nuts x 26\u003cbr\u003e\r\n608 Bearings x 2\u003c/p\u003e\u003col\u003e\u003cli\u003ePrint Spool.stl\u003c/li\u003e\u003cli\u003eUpdate variables in Holder.scad, export STL and print or alternatively print Holder.stl which includes a 8mm diameter spindle hole and 33mm spool shaft.\u003c/li\u003e\u003cli\u003eStart by assembling the two A-Frames as shown in picture using a 20cm section of rod for the base and 2 x 15cm sections of rod for the diagonals.  I found that using four spare rods to hold the frame corners together made it easier to align the holders.\u003c/li\u003e\u003cli\u003eReplace the two length-wise temporary supports with 2 x 20cm sections of threaded rod.\u003c/li\u003e\u003cli\u003eReplace the two width-wise temporary supports with 2 x 20cm sections of threaded rod.\u003c/li\u003e\u003cli\u003eScrew a 16cm section of threaded rod through the left holder, spool and right holder.\u003c/li\u003e\u003cli\u003ePlace 2 x bearings onto spindle shaft and drop into their slots on the frame.\u003c/li\u003e\u003cli\u003eFeed end of filament through holder and alight at 90 degrees to frame to help prevent spool from rolling like mad.\u003c/li\u003e\u003c/ol\u003e","imageAlt":"And Another Another Spool-Holder 3D printable model","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/and-another-another-spool-holder","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/SVcs21ANmXLFdiRpiZe2Bob9/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/and-another-another-spool-holder-3d-model-stl.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/SVcs21ANmXLFdiRpiZe2Bob9/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/and-another-another-spool-holder-3d-model-stl.webp","gridCandidates":[{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/SVcs21ANmXLFdiRpiZe2Bob9/6a314ee64365e9a50cc847b264c0df438901d553e153606f3b641b8e48cb207e/and-another-another-spool-holder-3d-model-stl.webp","width":306},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/SVcs21ANmXLFdiRpiZe2Bob9/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/and-another-another-spool-holder-3d-model-stl.webp","width":612},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/SVcs21ANmXLFdiRpiZe2Bob9/fc2d80458320aed4ba722745705c02fa7f690497f6e3961b946cdf20c88a8c12/and-another-another-spool-holder-3d-model-stl.webp","width":918}],"isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/and-another-another-spool-holder","isCgtVerified":true,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false},{"id":null,"name":null,"is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"hobby-accessories","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Hobby Accessories","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/233812/0871bf5a05/and-another-another-spool-holder-3d-model-0871bf5a05.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"6646735","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6646735,"title":"Whitewall Tire 1-24 - 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