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The square hooks is screwed onto the PSU itself with the same 2 holes which was used to mount it on the original Prusa MK3S frame. \n\nThe switch and the power supply connector is faced conveniently outwards for easy access. My PSU is mounted on the left side of the table, but the same frame will work for front, left and rear mouting as well.\n\nDo take note that the orignal cables are a little short so my wires are currenlty routed under the left side of the acrylic sheet and not from the rear.\n\nDo note that the PSU mount is a little bit bigger that the build plate of the MK3S so I designed it in 2 seperate parts, you just need to use any superglue to stick the 2 pieces together.\n\nAlso check out my Frame Support with PSU Mount, which uses the same square hooks.\n\n**These are the settings I used for this print:**\n1. I recommned PETG for this print but PLA should work just fine.\n2. Layer height:  0.2mm \n3. Infill - 15%\n4. 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Other settings should be default\n\n","imageAlt":"Prusa MK3S PSU Under Table Mount Holder 3D print model","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/prusa-mk3s-psu-under-table-mount-holder","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":true,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/wZkTib8LVAMN5cqbDLR2DutV/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/Prusa_PSU_Table_Mount.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/wZkTib8LVAMN5cqbDLR2DutV/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/Prusa_PSU_Table_Mount.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/prusa-mk3s-psu-under-table-mount-holder","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"hobby-accessories","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Hobby Accessories","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/2425198/647bbe86fa/prusa-mk3s-psu-under-table-mount-holder-3d-model-647bbe86fa.webp","saleOffDiscount":50,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false}},{"id":"5120824","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":5120824,"title":"3D model","price":3.0,"description":"Power suppy","imageAlt":"3D model powersuppy","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/art/other/3d-model-6b396223-f2d6-4312-a6ec-6324ff1b763a","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":true,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/irbgk6maQ94Z2ttHrAYRMFL5/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/Screenshot%202024-02-26%20111748.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/irbgk6maQ94Z2ttHrAYRMFL5/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/Screenshot%202024-02-26%20111748.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/art/other/3d-model-6b396223-f2d6-4312-a6ec-6324ff1b763a","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":59,"name":".sldprt","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"art","subcategorySlug":"other","categoryTitle":"Art \u0026 Design","subcategoryTitle":"Other","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/5120824/399de22f31/3d-model-3d-model-399de22f31.webp","saleOffDiscount":50,"eligibleForSubscription":true,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":true}},{"id":"3271260","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":3271260,"title":"Battery Dummy 4xAA with condenser for USB or power supply","price":4.0,"description":"Batterie Dummy zum z.B. Anschluss eines Kamera Blitzes an 5V USB oder 6V 2A Netzteil.\n\nTeile:\n- 2x Zylinderkopfschraube M3x10\n- 2x Mutter M3\n- 1x Kondensator 1W 10Ohm\n- 10cm Flachbandkabel (max. 9mm breite)\n- 10cm Kabel\n- Schrumpfschlauch\n- Lötmaterial\n\nViel Spaß beim Nachbauen!\n\nBei Fragen, schreibt mir einach ne PN.\n\n-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n\nBattery dummy for e.g. connecting a camera flash to 5V USB or 6V 2A power supply.\n\nParts:\n- 2x cylinder head screw M3x10\n- 2x nut M3\n- 1x capacitor 1W 10Ohm\n- 10cm ribbon cable (max. 9mm wide)\n- 10cm cable\n- heat shrink tubing\n- solder material\n\nHave fun building it!\n\nIf you have any questions, just write me a PM.","imageAlt":"3D printable model Battery Dummy 4xAA with condenser for 3","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/battery-dummy-4xaa-with-condenser-for-usb-or-power-supply","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":true,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/u4RZ4j2UjvAyxsgCx5XyWmH1/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/20210915_122525_2.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/u4RZ4j2UjvAyxsgCx5XyWmH1/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/20210915_122525_2.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/battery-dummy-4xaa-with-condenser-for-usb-or-power-supply","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"electronics","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Electronics","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/3271260/3d5b0fe839/battery-dummy-4xaa-with-condenser-for-usb-or-power-supply-3d-model-3d5b0fe839.webp","saleOffDiscount":50,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false}},{"id":"5588873","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":5588873,"title":"Desktop Power Supply Enclosure","price":40.0,"description":"**Desktop Power Supply Enclosure**\n\n- 3D Printable miniature prototype Model\n- Useful for product demonstration, R\u0026D , marketing, toys\n- Can be used as source file for AR/VR Projects\n- Units - mm\n- Poly Count - 162344\n- Boundary Size - 96 , 110 ,70 mm\n- 3D Print Material Volume  - 96580 mm^","imageAlt":"Desktop Power Supply Enclosure 3D print model","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/desktop-power-supply-enclosure","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":true,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/N48gwttgzh9E3o2uNXXjsUM8/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/Desktop_Power_Supply_Enclosure_V1.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/N48gwttgzh9E3o2uNXXjsUM8/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/Desktop_Power_Supply_Enclosure_V1.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/desktop-power-supply-enclosure","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":129,"name":".3mf","is_native":false},{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false},{"id":72,"name":".stp","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"gadgets","subcategorySlug":"other","categoryTitle":"Gadgets","subcategoryTitle":"Other","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/5588873/f7527f1e33/desktop-power-supply-enclosure-3d-model-f7527f1e33.webp","saleOffDiscount":50,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false}},{"id":"6375058","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6375058,"title":"Mean Well LRS-600 - 600N2 Series Power Supply Enclosure","price":5.8,"description":"**Make your electronics and lighting projects a bit more elegant, presentable, and (possibly) safer with our decorative power supply enclosure!**\n\nWhile designed around and tested with the Mean Well LRS-600-12, this enclosure will work with with any Mean Well 600 and 600N2 series power supplies such as the:\n\n- LRS-600-5\n- LRS-600-12\n- LRS-600-15\n- LRS-600-24\n- LRS-600-27\n- LRS-600-36\n- LRS-600-48\n\nand\n\n- LRS-600N2-12\n- LRS-600N2-24\n- LRS-600N2-36\n- LRS-600N2-48\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.86\" L x 4.88\" W x 1.60\" H (225.0mm x 124.0mm x 41.0mm).\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case. \n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 253mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course. \n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord - Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7mm Thread, 6 Mm Long - 92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long - 90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od - 5862K122\n\n**Metric Equivalents:**\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\n-\tBottom Shell\n-\tTop Shell – Magnetic Retention (If you plan to add magnets to the top cover).\n-\tTop Shell – Press Fit (If you intend to rely on pin friction for hold).\n-\tFront Grommet\n-\tSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half\n-\tSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\n**Recommended Print Settings:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees. Lastly, the corner pins are little long and can be a little fragile if layer adhesion is an issue. To minimize the risk of snapping, try gluing in a portion of 1/8in - 3mm rod, using a very self-adhering material, or just sticking to the shorter pinned \"press fit top cover.\"\n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly. \n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears. \n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general. \n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? 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If you need a enclosure for one of those, check out our LRS-200 series enclosure.\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case.\n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 245mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course.\n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\nMcMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord:\n*Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws:\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long \n92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws:\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long \n90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts:\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od \n5862K122\n\nMetric Equivalents:\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws:\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts:\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\nBottom Shell, \nTop Shell, \nFront Grommet, \nSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half, \nSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\n**Printing Recommendations:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees.\n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly.\n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears.\n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general.\n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? 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It is compatible with standard printer settings and suitable for personal use. The model can be scaled before printing. Enjoy your prints!","imageAlt":null,"url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/gas-regulator-regulator-2a329f51-d5ea-40ee-b2b3-741ef4b25ff7","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":true,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/00pp4n5o8wzg45i0lovw9kqtggfb/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/aeieuaaeia.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/00pp4n5o8wzg45i0lovw9kqtggfb/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/aeieuaaeia.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/gas-regulator-regulator-2a329f51-d5ea-40ee-b2b3-741ef4b25ff7","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"mechanical-parts","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Mechanical parts","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/6851587/ad730f30b0/gas-regulator-regulator-3d-model-ad730f30b0.webp","saleOffDiscount":30,"eligibleForSubscription":true,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":true}},{"id":"6357108","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6357108,"title":"Power Supply Enclosure Collection","price":80.0,"description":"**Consider this project a perpetual subscription to all of our Power Supply enclosures - buy once, get access to them all. As an added bonus, you can request enclosures for a power supply not yet in the collection, request cable retaining front plates, AND get a 30% discount off of our typical production price should you need one printed for you (all hardware included, just pay shipping).**\n\nIn the collection so far, we have enclosures for the:\n\nMean Well LRS-200 series:\n\n- LRS-200-3.3\n- LRS-200-4.2\n- LRS-200-5\n- LRS-200-12\n- LRS-200-15\n- LRS-200-24\n- LRS-200-36\n- LRS-200-48\n\nMean Well LRS-350 series:\n\n- LRS-350-3.3\n- LRS-350-4.2\n- LRS-350-5\n- LRS-350-12\n- LRS-350-15\n- LRS-350-24\n- LRS-350-36\n- LRS-350-48 \n\nMean Well LRS-450 series:\n\n- LRS-450-5\n- LRS-450-12\n- LRS-450-15\n- LRS-450-24\n- LRS-450-36\n- LRS-450-48 \n\nMean Well LRS-600 series:\n\n- LRS-600-5\n- LRS-600-12\n- LRS-600-15\n- LRS-600-24\n- LRS-600-27\n- LRS-600-36\n- LRS-600-48 \n\nMean Well LRS-600N2 series:\n\n- LRS-600-12\n- LRS-600-24\n- LRS-600-36\n- LRS-600-48 \n\nMean Well RSP-200 series:\n\n- RSP-200-2.5\n- RSP-200-3.3\n- RSP-200-4\n- RSP-200-5\n- RSP-200-7.5\n- RSP-200-12 \n\nMean Well RSP-320 series:\n\n- RSP-320-2.5\n- RSP-320-3.3\n- RSP-320-4\n- RSP-320-5\n- RSP-320-7.5\n- RSP-320-12 \n\nPotential follow up enclosures:\n\n- LRS-35\n- LRS-50\n- LRS-75\n- LRS-100\n- LRS-150\n- LRS-150F\n- LRS-1200\n- UHP Series \n\nPlease note that requests are currently limited to adaptations of our current design to AC-DC power supplies with a similar form factor, and that we are mainly focusing on Mean Well power supplies as they are one of the most reputable, tested, verified brands around. However, we will consider also making enclosures for power supplies by Phillips, Osram, or Cincon. No, we will not consider any off-brand drivers you find on Alibaba or Amazon.\n\nFor any designs that allow it, we will aim to make printable water and air-tight versions as well.\n\nPlease refer to the included README for enclosure-specific recommendations or go to the particular enclosure's listing - you can navigate to it quickly by clicking on our profile and finding the enclosure you're looking for.\n\nThought up, drawn, tested, and verified by humans.","imageAlt":"3D printable model Power Supply Enclosure Collection","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/power-supply-enclosure-collection","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/n19aa3ijhqys6v5d25lmcbpfj4xt/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/Hero%201.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/n19aa3ijhqys6v5d25lmcbpfj4xt/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/Hero%201.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/power-supply-enclosure-collection","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"gadgets","subcategorySlug":"other","categoryTitle":"Gadgets","subcategoryTitle":"Other","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/6357108/19e262ac39/power-supply-enclosure-collection-3d-model-19e262ac39.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false}},{"id":"2858022","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":2858022,"title":"Prinduino Anycubic I3 Mega Upgrade 2 - Power supply cover","price":10.0,"description":"In the first part, we will swap the pre-installed drivers for much quieter TMC2208 drivers, we will install a new fan duct and a quieter fan to cool the drivers better and get the 3D printer quieter. In the second part, we will replace the entire power supply cover and the power supply fan. In the third and last part, we will change the fan of the hotend.\n\nPart 1:\n       \n        Video: https://youtu.be/YBEJP69YVhM\n\n        Download Models with price offer: https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-1-fan-duct-for-drivers-a17cedb3-ae70-4c21-8f21-6b25a4b7baae\n\n        Download Models for free: https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/gadgets/other/prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-1-fan-duct-for-drivers\n\n        Required components:\n\n                *fan: https://amzn.to/3tc7RgQ\n\n                *TMC2208 driver: https://amzn.to/3t8gLvD\n \n \n \n \nPart 2:\n\n        Video: https://youtu.be/G41uKwfq0y4\n\n        Download Models with price offer: https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-2-power-supply-cover\n\n        Download Models for free: https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/gadgets/other/free-prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-2-power-supply-cover\n\n        Required components:\n\n                *fan: https://amzn.to/370BOH8\n\n\n\n\n\nIm ersten Teil werden wir die vorinstallierten Treiber gegen viel leisere TMC2208 Treiber tauschen, einen neuen Lüfterkanal und einen leiseren Lüfter einbauen, um die Treiber besser zu kühlen und den 3D-Drucker leiser zu bekommen. Im \nzweiten Teil werden wir die gesamte Netzteilabdeckung und den Netzteillüfter tauschen. Im dritten und letzten Teil werden wir noch den Lüfter des Hotends tauschen.\n\nTeil 1:\n\n        Video: https://youtu.be/mvIJd3sgj9Y\n\n        Download mit Preisangebot: https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-1-fan-duct-for-drivers-a17cedb3-ae70-4c21-8f21-6b25a4b7baae\n\n        kostenloser Download: https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/gadgets/other/prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-1-fan-duct-for-drivers\n\n        Benötigte Komponenten:\n\n                *Lüfter: https://amzn.to/3akrhHt\n\n                *TMC2208 Treiber: https://amzn.to/3t9tw9i\n\n\n\nTeil 2:\n\n        Video: https://youtu.be/rgms7InDIM4\n\n        Download mit Preisangebot: https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-2-power-supply-cover\n\n        kostenloser Download: https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/gadgets/other/free-prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-2-power-supply-cover\n\n        Benötigte Komponenten:\n\n                Lüfter*: https://amzn.to/3tSE3pZ\n\n\n\n*affiliate Links\n","imageAlt":"3D printable model Prinduino Anycubic I3 Mega Upgrade 2 3","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-2-power-supply-cover","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":true,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/5NnPMKtF5icSCH46DRjR96RC/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/1.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/5NnPMKtF5icSCH46DRjR96RC/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/1.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-2-power-supply-cover","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":12,"name":".obj","is_native":false},{"id":14,"name":".skp","is_native":false},{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false},{"id":5,"name":".fbx","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"gadgets","subcategorySlug":"other","categoryTitle":"Gadgets","subcategoryTitle":"Other","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/2858022/cf2c4c7016/prinduino-anycubic-i3-mega-upgrade-2-power-supply-cover-3d-model-cf2c4c7016.webp","saleOffDiscount":50,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":true}},{"id":"6377890","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6377890,"title":"Mean Well RSP-320 Series Power Supply Enclosure","price":5.8,"description":"**Make your electronics and lighting projects a bit more elegant, presentable, and (possibly) safer with our decorative power supply enclosure! **\n\nWhile designed around and tested with the Mean Well LRS-350-24, this enclosure should, by all accounts work with any of the RSP-320 series power supply as they share the same exact dimensions and venting arrangement. This includes the:\n\n- RSP-320-2.5\n- RSP-320-3.3\n- RSP-320-4\n- RSP-320-5\n- RSP-320-7.5\n- RSP-320-12\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.46\" L x 4.53\" W x 1.18\" H (215.0mm x 115.0mm x 30.0mm) - the only exceptions being the 350 series PSU's which would benefit from a bit more material on top. If you need a enclosure for one of those, check out our RSP-320 series enclosure.\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case. \n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 245mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course. \n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord\n*Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long \n92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long \n90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od \n5862K122\n\n\nMetric Equivalents:\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\nBottom Shell\nTop Shell\nFront Grommet\nSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half\nSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\n**Printing Recommendations:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees. \n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly. \n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears. \n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general. \n\n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? Consider buying in to our whole Power Supply Enclosure collection - find it in our list of posted designs or search FromTheCOR - Power Supply Enclosure Collection\n\nTHOUGHT UP, DRAWN, TESTED, AND VERIFIED BY HUMANS.","imageAlt":"3D print model Mean Well RSP-320 Series Power Supply","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-rsp-320-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ntf8okm2lj4tbucqh5brsr5cnnal/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/0%20-%20Hero.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ntf8okm2lj4tbucqh5brsr5cnnal/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/0%20-%20Hero.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-rsp-320-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"gadgets","subcategorySlug":"other","categoryTitle":"Gadgets","subcategoryTitle":"Other","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/6377890/f367c06266/mean-well-rsp-320-series-power-supply-enclosure-3d-model-f367c06266.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false}},{"id":"6375048","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6375048,"title":"Mean Well LRS-450 Series Power Supply Enclosure","price":5.8,"description":"**Make your electronics and lighting projects a bit more elegant, presentable, and (possibly) safer with our decorative power supply enclosure!**\n\nDesigned around and tested with the Mean Well LRS-600-12, this enclosure has been modified to work with any member of the Mean Well 450 series (which, by all publicly available information shows that all in the 450 series supply are a shorter version of the 600 series supplies – even sharing the same venting arrangement). This includes power supplies such as the: \n-\tLRS-450-5\n-\tLRS-450-12\n-\tLRS-450-15\n-\tLRS-450-24\n-\tLRS-450-35\n-\tLRS-450-48\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.86\" L x 4.88\" W x 1.38\" H (225.0mm x 124.0mm x 35.0mm).\n\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case. \n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 253mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course. \n\n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord - Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long - 92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long - 90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od - 5862K122\n\n**Metric Equivalents:**\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\n-\tBottom Shell\n-\tTop Shell – Magnetic Retention (If you plan to add magnets to the top cover).\n-\tTop Shell – Press Fit (If you intend to rely on pin friction for hold).\n-\tFront Grommet\n-\tSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half\n-\tSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\n\n**Recommended Print Settings:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees. Lastly, the corner pins are little long and can be a little fragile if layer adhesion is an issue. To minimize the risk of snapping, try gluing in a portion of 1/8in - 3mm rod, using a very self-adhering material, or just sticking to the shorter pinned \"press fit top cover.\"\n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly. \n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears. \n\n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general. \n\n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? Consider buying in to our whole Power Supply Enclosure collection - find it in our list of posted designs or search FromTheCOR - Power Supply Enclosure Collection","imageAlt":"Mean Well LRS-450 Series Power Supply 3D printable model","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-lrs-450-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/o882jdax4el79o2to6uskr6flfd4/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/0%20-%20Hero-450.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/o882jdax4el79o2to6uskr6flfd4/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/0%20-%20Hero-450.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-lrs-450-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"gadgets","subcategorySlug":"other","categoryTitle":"Gadgets","subcategoryTitle":"Other","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/6375048/42cfe7bd4c/mean-well-lrs-450-series-power-supply-enclosure-3d-model-42cfe7bd4c.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false}},{"id":"6357143","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6357143,"title":"Mean Well LRS-200 Series Power Supply Enclosure","price":5.8,"description":"**Make your electronics and lighting projects a bit more elegant, presentable, and (possibly) safer with our decorative power supply enclosure!**\n\nWhile designed around and tested with the Mean Well LRS-350-24, this enclosure has been adapted to work with with any Mean Well 200 series power supplies such as the: \n\n- LRS-200-3.3\n- LRS-200-4.2\n- LRS-200-5\n- LRS-200-12\n- LRS-200-15\n- LRS-200-24\n- LRS-200-36\n- LRS-200-48\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.46\" L x 4.53\" W x 1.18\" H (215.0mm x 115.0mm x 30.0mm) - the only exceptions being the 350 series PSU's which would benefit from a bit more material on top. If you need a enclosure for one of those, check out our LRS-350 series enclosure.\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case.\n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 245mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course.\n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord: \n*Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws: \nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long \n92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws: \n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long \n90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts: \nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od \n5862K122\n\nMetric Equivalents:\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws:\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts:\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\nBottom Shell, \nTop Shell, \nFront Grommet, \nSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half, \nSplit Front Grommet - Top Half, \n\n**Printing Recommendations:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees.\n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly.\n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears.\n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general.\n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? Consider buying in to our whole Power Supply Enclosure collection - find it in our list of posted designs or search FromTheCOR - Power Supply Enclosure Collection\n\nTHOUGHT UP, DRAWN, TESTED, AND VERIFIED BY HUMANS.","imageAlt":"Mean Well LRS-200 Series Power Supply 3D printable model","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-lrs-200-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/fzypidclena4d459uvigt358wd41/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/0%20-%20Hero.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/fzypidclena4d459uvigt358wd41/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/0%20-%20Hero.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-lrs-200-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"gadgets","subcategorySlug":"other","categoryTitle":"Gadgets","subcategoryTitle":"Other","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/6357143/4eeb47e0e9/mean-well-lrs-200-series-power-supply-enclosure-3d-model-4eeb47e0e9.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false}},{"id":"6377878","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6377878,"title":"Mean Well RSP-200 Series Power Supply Enclosure","price":5.8,"description":"**Make your electronics and lighting projects a bit more elegant, presentable, and (possibly) safer with our decorative power supply enclosure!**\n\nWhile designed around and tested with the Mean Well LRS-200-24, this enclosure should, by all accounts work with any of the RSP series power supply as they share the same exact dimensions and venting arrangement. This includes the: \n\n- RSP-200-2.5\n- RSP-200-3.3\n- RSP-200-4\n- RSP-200-5\n- RSP-200-7.5\n- RSP-200-12\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.46\" L x 4.53\" W x 1.18\" H (215.0mm x 115.0mm x 30.0mm) - the only exceptions being the 350 series PSU's which would benefit from a bit more material on top. If you need a enclosure for one of those, check out our RSP-320 series enclosure.\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case. \n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 245mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course. \n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord\n*Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long \n92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long \n90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od \n5862K122\n\n\nMetric Equivalents:\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\nBottom Shell\nTop Shell\nFront Grommet\nSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half\nSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees. \n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly. \n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears. \n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general. \n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? 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It is compatible with standard printer settings and suitable for personal use. The model can be scaled before printing. 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Enjoy your prints!You can use these products as hobby accessories.","imageAlt":"3D print model Welding Machine","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/welding-machine-28317b64-edfa-4405-a8ab-aa198cd8267e","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":true,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/9snv83wbsp4dha4fx2jt4gm8jgja/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/iggogoiggiggi.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/9snv83wbsp4dha4fx2jt4gm8jgja/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/iggogoiggiggi.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/welding-machine-28317b64-edfa-4405-a8ab-aa198cd8267e","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"mechanical-parts","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Mechanical parts","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/6890356/5160a2f879/welding-machine-3d-model-5160a2f879.webp","saleOffDiscount":30,"eligibleForSubscription":true,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":true}},{"id":"6890386","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6890386,"title":"Welding Machine","price":5.0,"description":"This file has been specially prepared for 3D printers and optimized to ensure smooth and reliable printing. 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