{"listingPage":true,"listingPagePreloaded":true,"params":{"locale":"en","controller":"listing_page","action":"index","parent_category_slug":"meanwell","print_ready":"1","file_types":null,"printable":true},"browser_attributes":{"title":"Free \u0026 Premium Meanwell print files","description":"Here you can find Meanwell 3D print files (STL, OBJ, FBX, and many others) ready for printing. Purchase and download free 3D models, stream and print with your 3D printer.","free_to_premium":{"prefix":"Do you need something special? 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Well LRS-350 Series Power Supply Enclosure","price":5.8,"description":"**Make your electronics and lighting projects a bit more elegant, presentable, and (possibly) safer with our decorative power supply enclosure!**\n\nWhile designed around and tested with the Mean Well LRS-350-24, this enclosure will work with with any Mean Well 350 series power supplies such as the: \n\n- LRS-350-3.3\n- LRS-350-4.2\n- LRS-350-5\n- LRS-350-12\n- LRS-350-15\n- LRS-350-24\n- LRS-350-36\n- LRS-350-48\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.46\" L x 4.53\" W x 1.18\" H (215.0mm x 115.0mm x 30.0mm) - the only exceptions being the passive / fanless 200 series PSU's which require a completely unobstructed top cover to allow proper ventilation. If you need a enclosure for one of those, check out our LRS-200 series enclosure.\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case.\n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 245mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course.\n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\nMcMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord:\n*Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws:\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long \n92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws:\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long \n90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts:\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od \n5862K122\n\nMetric Equivalents:\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws:\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts:\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\nBottom Shell, \nTop Shell, \nFront Grommet, \nSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half, \nSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\n**Printing Recommendations:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees.\n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly.\n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears.\n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general.\n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? 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There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case. \n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 253mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course. \n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord - Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7mm Thread, 6 Mm Long - 92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long - 90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od - 5862K122\n\n**Metric Equivalents:**\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\n-\tBottom Shell\n-\tTop Shell – Magnetic Retention (If you plan to add magnets to the top cover).\n-\tTop Shell – Press Fit (If you intend to rely on pin friction for hold).\n-\tFront Grommet\n-\tSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half\n-\tSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\n**Recommended Print Settings:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees. Lastly, the corner pins are little long and can be a little fragile if layer adhesion is an issue. To minimize the risk of snapping, try gluing in a portion of 1/8in - 3mm rod, using a very self-adhering material, or just sticking to the shorter pinned \"press fit top cover.\"\n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly. \n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears. \n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general. \n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? Consider buying in to our whole Power Supply Enclosure collection - find it in our list of posted designs or search FromTheCOR - Power Supply Enclosure Collection","imageAlt":"Mean Well LRS-600 - 600N2 Series 3D printable model 2","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-lrs-600-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/pyxy0cbw97pusl92qlujblawzrqb/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/0%20-%20Hero-600.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/pyxy0cbw97pusl92qlujblawzrqb/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/0%20-%20Hero-600.webp","gridCandidates":[{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/pyxy0cbw97pusl92qlujblawzrqb/6a314ee64365e9a50cc847b264c0df438901d553e153606f3b641b8e48cb207e/0%20-%20Hero-600.webp","width":306},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/pyxy0cbw97pusl92qlujblawzrqb/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/0%20-%20Hero-600.webp","width":612},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/pyxy0cbw97pusl92qlujblawzrqb/fc2d80458320aed4ba722745705c02fa7f690497f6e3961b946cdf20c88a8c12/0%20-%20Hero-600.webp","width":918}],"isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-lrs-600-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"gadgets","subcategorySlug":"other","categoryTitle":"Gadgets","subcategoryTitle":"Other","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/6375058/32921054df/mean-well-lrs-600-600n2-series-power-supply-enclosure-3d-model-32921054df.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"82042","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":82042,"title":"UltraCapPack for Maxwell DCell TOP","price":0.0,"description":"\u003cp\u003e* This is a two piece product, you are viewing the TOP .stl file. You may view the BOTTO .stl file here: http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-bottom .\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis Ultracap booster pack based on Lasersaber's work at www.laserhacker.com.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePart number and info for UltraCaps:\r\nMaxwell\r\nDCELL\r\n350 Farad 2.7 VDC\r\nM/N: BCAP0350 E270 T11 10\u003c/p\u003e","imageAlt":"UltraCapPack for Maxwell DCell TOP 3D printable model","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-top","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/AxEL9NEx9iRykQRbnwBwotuo/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-top-3d-model-stl-skp.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/AxEL9NEx9iRykQRbnwBwotuo/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-top-3d-model-stl-skp.webp","gridCandidates":[{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/AxEL9NEx9iRykQRbnwBwotuo/6a314ee64365e9a50cc847b264c0df438901d553e153606f3b641b8e48cb207e/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-top-3d-model-stl-skp.webp","width":306},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/AxEL9NEx9iRykQRbnwBwotuo/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-top-3d-model-stl-skp.webp","width":612},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/AxEL9NEx9iRykQRbnwBwotuo/fc2d80458320aed4ba722745705c02fa7f690497f6e3961b946cdf20c88a8c12/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-top-3d-model-stl-skp.webp","width":918}],"isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-top","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":14,"name":".skp","is_native":false},{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"electronics","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Electronics","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/82042/1b8b1cddba/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-top-3d-model-stl-skp.png","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"6377878","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6377878,"title":"Mean Well RSP-200 Series Power Supply Enclosure","price":5.8,"description":"**Make your electronics and lighting projects a bit more elegant, presentable, and (possibly) safer with our decorative power supply enclosure!**\n\nWhile designed around and tested with the Mean Well LRS-200-24, this enclosure should, by all accounts work with any of the RSP series power supply as they share the same exact dimensions and venting arrangement. This includes the: \n\n- RSP-200-2.5\n- RSP-200-3.3\n- RSP-200-4\n- RSP-200-5\n- RSP-200-7.5\n- RSP-200-12\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.46\" L x 4.53\" W x 1.18\" H (215.0mm x 115.0mm x 30.0mm) - the only exceptions being the 350 series PSU's which would benefit from a bit more material on top. If you need a enclosure for one of those, check out our RSP-320 series enclosure.\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case. \n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 245mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course. \n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord\n*Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long \n92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long \n90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od \n5862K122\n\n\nMetric Equivalents:\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\nBottom Shell\nTop Shell\nFront Grommet\nSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half\nSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees. \n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly. \n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears. \n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general. \n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? 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You may view the TOP .stl file here: http://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-top .\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis Ultracap booster pack based on Lasersaber's work at www.laserhacker.com. \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePart number and info for UltraCaps:\r\nMaxwell\r\nDCELL\r\n350 Farad 2.7 VDC\r\nM/N: BCAP0350 E270 T11 10\u003c/p\u003e","imageAlt":"3D print model UltraCapPack for Maxwell DCell BOTTOM","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-bottom","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/Fff7V6SSTyg7XxBhwbv79y9b/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-bottom-3d-model-stl-skp.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/Fff7V6SSTyg7XxBhwbv79y9b/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-bottom-3d-model-stl-skp.webp","gridCandidates":[{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/Fff7V6SSTyg7XxBhwbv79y9b/6a314ee64365e9a50cc847b264c0df438901d553e153606f3b641b8e48cb207e/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-bottom-3d-model-stl-skp.webp","width":306},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/Fff7V6SSTyg7XxBhwbv79y9b/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-bottom-3d-model-stl-skp.webp","width":612},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/Fff7V6SSTyg7XxBhwbv79y9b/fc2d80458320aed4ba722745705c02fa7f690497f6e3961b946cdf20c88a8c12/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-bottom-3d-model-stl-skp.webp","width":918}],"isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-bottom","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false},{"id":14,"name":".skp","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"electronics","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Electronics","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/81852/6842f73b21/ultracappack-for-maxwell-dcell-bottom-3d-model-stl-skp.png","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"6357143","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6357143,"title":"Mean Well LRS-200 Series Power Supply Enclosure","price":5.8,"description":"**Make your electronics and lighting projects a bit more elegant, presentable, and (possibly) safer with our decorative power supply enclosure!**\n\nWhile designed around and tested with the Mean Well LRS-350-24, this enclosure has been adapted to work with with any Mean Well 200 series power supplies such as the: \n\n- LRS-200-3.3\n- LRS-200-4.2\n- LRS-200-5\n- LRS-200-12\n- LRS-200-15\n- LRS-200-24\n- LRS-200-36\n- LRS-200-48\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.46\" L x 4.53\" W x 1.18\" H (215.0mm x 115.0mm x 30.0mm) - the only exceptions being the 350 series PSU's which would benefit from a bit more material on top. If you need a enclosure for one of those, check out our LRS-350 series enclosure.\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case.\n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 245mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course.\n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord: \n*Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws: \nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long \n92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws: \n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long \n90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts: \nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od \n5862K122\n\nMetric Equivalents:\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws:\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts:\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\nBottom Shell, \nTop Shell, \nFront Grommet, \nSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half, \nSplit Front Grommet - Top Half, \n\n**Printing Recommendations:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees.\n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly.\n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears.\n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general.\n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? 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This includes the:\n\n- RSP-320-2.5\n- RSP-320-3.3\n- RSP-320-4\n- RSP-320-5\n- RSP-320-7.5\n- RSP-320-12\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.46\" L x 4.53\" W x 1.18\" H (215.0mm x 115.0mm x 30.0mm) - the only exceptions being the 350 series PSU's which would benefit from a bit more material on top. If you need a enclosure for one of those, check out our RSP-320 series enclosure.\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case. \n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 245mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course. \n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord\n*Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long \n92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long \n90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od \n5862K122\n\n\nMetric Equivalents:\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\nBottom Shell\nTop Shell\nFront Grommet\nSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half\nSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\n**Printing Recommendations:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees. \n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly. \n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears. \n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general. \n\n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? Consider buying in to our whole Power Supply Enclosure collection - find it in our list of posted designs or search FromTheCOR - Power Supply Enclosure Collection\n\nTHOUGHT UP, DRAWN, TESTED, AND VERIFIED BY HUMANS.","imageAlt":"3D print model Mean Well RSP-320 Series Power Supply","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-rsp-320-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ntf8okm2lj4tbucqh5brsr5cnnal/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/0%20-%20Hero.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ntf8okm2lj4tbucqh5brsr5cnnal/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/0%20-%20Hero.webp","gridCandidates":[{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ntf8okm2lj4tbucqh5brsr5cnnal/6a314ee64365e9a50cc847b264c0df438901d553e153606f3b641b8e48cb207e/0%20-%20Hero.webp","width":306},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ntf8okm2lj4tbucqh5brsr5cnnal/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/0%20-%20Hero.webp","width":612},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ntf8okm2lj4tbucqh5brsr5cnnal/fc2d80458320aed4ba722745705c02fa7f690497f6e3961b946cdf20c88a8c12/0%20-%20Hero.webp","width":918}],"isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/other/mean-well-rsp-320-series-power-supply-enclosure","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"gadgets","subcategorySlug":"other","categoryTitle":"Gadgets","subcategoryTitle":"Other","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/6377890/f367c06266/mean-well-rsp-320-series-power-supply-enclosure-3d-model-f367c06266.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"6375048","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":6375048,"title":"Mean Well LRS-450 Series Power Supply Enclosure","price":5.8,"description":"**Make your electronics and lighting projects a bit more elegant, presentable, and (possibly) safer with our decorative power supply enclosure!**\n\nDesigned around and tested with the Mean Well LRS-600-12, this enclosure has been modified to work with any member of the Mean Well 450 series (which, by all publicly available information shows that all in the 450 series supply are a shorter version of the 600 series supplies – even sharing the same venting arrangement). This includes power supplies such as the: \n-\tLRS-450-5\n-\tLRS-450-12\n-\tLRS-450-15\n-\tLRS-450-24\n-\tLRS-450-35\n-\tLRS-450-48\n\nIn theory, these enclosures should also work with any power supply that has the same venting arrangement and dimensions of: 8.86\" L x 4.88\" W x 1.38\" H (225.0mm x 124.0mm x 35.0mm).\n\n\n**The Design:**\n\nThe enclosure is made up of two halves which simply sandwich your power supply in between. There’s also an optional front grommet which allows frictionless cable passage and helps further obstruct / conceal the terminal block. Depending on whether your installation is a bit more permanent, or you’re likely to remove the top cover frequently, there are single and split versions of the grommet included. There are mounting screws bosses in the bottom which allow secure fastening of the bottom cover to your power supply (only truly needed if your power supply will be mounted in a dynamic environment or if you want to hang it on a wall or upside down). The top cover, on the other hand, has pegs which simply press fit into the corner bosses for a secure fit. If you want to ensure the top cover doesn’t budge, you also have the option of drilling out the pegs in the top cover to ⅛” and squeezing in some 0.125in x 0.375in magnets, or gluing in some 3mm x 10mm magnets if working with metric hardware (holes are drawn at 0.118in or 2.99mm to give you both options. Neodymium magnets recommended for best hold. Obviously, you also have the option to just glue the top cover in place but, be absolutely sure you’re ok with the PSU being ‘permanently’ installed in that case. \n\nIn hopes of making this project as easy and accessible as possible, these parts were primarily engineered with FDM printing in mind. That said, they're completely SLA, SLS, SLM, MJF, and MJ compatible as well. At just under 253mm long, they easily fit on a Bambu Lab (or similar) printer, and sport features that are drawn to build successfully using a standard 0.4mm nozzle. No matter what process you end up using, there is some wiggle room in the tolerances and you should not need to do much or any post-processing to get everything to fit - that’s if your settings are dialed in, of course. \n\n\n**Additional Parts / Hardware Required:**\n\n*McMaster part numbers included where applicable.\n\n1x Power Cord - Also, don’t forget to flip the switch on the side of the power supply to the voltage that matches your outlet.\n\n4x Enclosure Fastening Screws\nPhillips Flat Head Screw, M4 x 0.7 Mm Thread, 6mm Long - 92010A216\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\n#4 Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal, 3/4\" Long - 90190A113\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\nNeodymium Magnet, Magnetized Through Thickness, 3/8\" Thick, 1/8\" Od - 5862K122\n\n**Metric Equivalents:**\n\n4x Surface Mounting Screws\nM2.9x19mm Phillips Rounded Head Screws For Sheet Metal\n\n4x Magnet Inserts\n3x10mm cylindrical neodymium magnet - magnetized through thickness (typical cylinder magnet).\n\nPlease note / friendly reminder: Do not get stainless steel surface mounting screws if you intend to add magnets to help the top cover stay fixed.\n\n\n**File Package:**\n\nIncluded in this download are five high resolution meshes:\n-\tBottom Shell\n-\tTop Shell – Magnetic Retention (If you plan to add magnets to the top cover).\n-\tTop Shell – Press Fit (If you intend to rely on pin friction for hold).\n-\tFront Grommet\n-\tSplit Front Grommet - Bottom Half\n-\tSplit Front Grommet - Top Half\n\n\n**Recommended Print Settings:**\n\nIf printing FDM, we strongly recommend going with a 0.4mm nozzle, 0.2mm layer heights, and sticking with a 100% infill for maximum strength. Print big-face down on a bed surface of your choosing. Rectilinear infill works best for all layers up to where the internal ribs start, however, stick to concentric infill thereafter just to minimize the amount of tiny fill patterns the printer has to do to fill a 1.6mm thick shell / keep your printer from shaking itself to bits.\n\nIf you want to save on material and cut print time, you could try printing in a stronger material (fiber reinforced), starting with 2 bottom layers, 4 infill layers after, and then cap with two top layers before switching to a 100% filled concentric pattern for the remaining layers of the print. You shouldn’t need any supports as all of the angles are around / less than 45 degrees. Lastly, the corner pins are little long and can be a little fragile if layer adhesion is an issue. To minimize the risk of snapping, try gluing in a portion of 1/8in - 3mm rod, using a very self-adhering material, or just sticking to the shorter pinned \"press fit top cover.\"\n\nFor SLA, slice at a 45 degree angle with enough supports to successfully start and hold the print towards the end of the build. Also make sure you have your shrinkage dialed in.\n\nFor SLS and MFJ, make sure to allow proper cool down to ensure the shells don’t warp. Also, you may need to sand the parts a little around the boss to make the press fit just a little smoother.\n\nFor SLM, some post machining may be needed around the mating points.\n\nNo matter which process you choose, we do recommend going with a rubber material for the front grommet. ShoreA 65 works, looks, and feels cool - something harder is probably just as good. Just make sure to remove any blobs and strings should you have any so the grommet presses in firmly but smoothly. \n\nApart from that, we recommend just practicing good printing habits such as: make sure you dry your filament - dial in your print settings before printing - print on a PEI, gluestick, or with some circle pads / skirt if bed adhesion is a concern - print in an enclosure if you’re worried about warping and layer adhesion (especially if printing PETG, Nylon, or ABS), and don’t start assembling anything until you’re confident you’ve got a strong / successful print that you’re willing to work with (don't hesitate to reprint if necessary).\n\nLastly, if your slicer software doesn’t automatically interpret the correct units / scale try scaling by 25.4x or 2540% (if it imports really small) or, 0.0393701x or 3.93701% (if it imports really big).\n\nPlease feel free to reach out if you get stuck or need help at any point in the process. Additionally, if you find or think of any improvements, let me know - definitely all ears. \n\n\n**Warning!**\n\nPlease note: big, big “maybe” on the “safer” claim above as carelessness and stupidity know no bounds, and accidents can and do happen. That said, the enclosure does cover/obscure the terminal block, reducing the chances of accidentally sticking something in there that doesn't belong, causing a short, and consequently resulting in shock or damage. Regardless, make sure to follow all of the manufacturers recommended safety procedures and just practice responsible electrical practices in general. \n\n\n**Alternate Versions:**\n\nNeed an enclosure for a different power supply? 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Also, for smaller Tesla models M4, P4, T4, A2, L4 - use my other designs...\n\nCustom designed shroud is a perfect way of cooling a passive-heatsink NVIDIA Tesla's (not included) listed above outside of the case with Noctua A12 fan. This shroud (together with the fan, not included) is engineered to fit precisely to the card, and to meet/exceed the card's cooling requirements. Model is optimized for good hand feel, without sharp edges \u0026 quality of design according to best engineering practices by a engineer with a degree, but also protected with logo (not shown on photo, only in STL).\n\n3D printing material for higher temperature resistance is advised: ABS, ASA, HIPS, PP, PC or Nylon. Also, **a small supports are needed**, so be sure to make them - see the attached pictures!\nAfter 3D printing, use some paint for smoothing edges for better air flow. I use thermal resistant paint for up to 250°C, for this use.\n\nFor fixing this duct to Tesla, use 3pcs DIN 912 M3 screws.\n\nModel is tested \u0026 suited for Noctua A12 fan with DIN 933 M4x40 screws, nut DIN 934 M4 with normal washer DIN 125 (tightening parts not included)! Using other tightening sizes at your own risk to fit with part.\n\nItem dimensions: 120x120x156mm.\n\nThis model was co-developed with measurements \u0026 tests on card from user \"caseymdk\", for which I am thankful for this cooperation.\n\nFor any additional questions \u0026/or suggestion, contact me freely.","imageAlt":"Large Tesla M P or V series duct for 120mm fan","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/pc-laptop/gpu-large-tesla-m-p-or-v-series-duct-for-120mm-fan","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":true,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ragvl22ub9eoh4m4atxrmakyos2k/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/Snimka%20zaslona%202026-10-10%20164535.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ragvl22ub9eoh4m4atxrmakyos2k/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/Snimka%20zaslona%202026-10-10%20164535.webp","gridCandidates":[{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ragvl22ub9eoh4m4atxrmakyos2k/6a314ee64365e9a50cc847b264c0df438901d553e153606f3b641b8e48cb207e/Snimka%20zaslona%202026-10-10%20164535.webp","width":306},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ragvl22ub9eoh4m4atxrmakyos2k/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/Snimka%20zaslona%202026-10-10%20164535.webp","width":612},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/ragvl22ub9eoh4m4atxrmakyos2k/fc2d80458320aed4ba722745705c02fa7f690497f6e3961b946cdf20c88a8c12/Snimka%20zaslona%202026-10-10%20164535.webp","width":918}],"isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/gadgets/pc-laptop/gpu-large-tesla-m-p-or-v-series-duct-for-120mm-fan","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"gadgets","subcategorySlug":"pc-laptop","categoryTitle":"Gadgets","subcategoryTitle":"PC \u0026 Laptop","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/7661091/f257bee341/large-tesla-m-p-or-v-series-duct-for-120mm-fan-3d-model-f257bee341.webp","saleOffDiscount":40,"eligibleForSubscription":true,"subscriptionSubscribed":true,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":"premium"}},{"id":"4666867","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":4666867,"title":"Meat Wall Shrine Space Chaos Knight Tabletop Terrain","price":5.0,"description":"Includes low and high poly, as well as MAX file for editing to increase compatibility with your hardware or add subdivisions.\n\nContains meat shrine, base is one piece.  Upper shrine is multiple pieces which glue to base.\n\nShould fit multiple average sized space marine characters (28-32mm), but feel free to scale however you wish, keep in mind that there are ribcages in the meat wall itself which could look unrealistic if not proportional with your human figures.\n\nNot pre-supported, make sure to do any necessary repair work within your slicer to fix any stl export errors.  Resin printer recommended.\n\nFinal image is reference for painting the meat, but I would love to see diversions from this!\n\nIf you require higher/lower poly model, supports, or need fixes contact me here or at MatCGImagery@gmail.com.\n\n205.33 x 365.13 x 117.18 mm","imageAlt":"3D printable model Meat Wall Shrine Space Chaos Knight 1","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/games-toys/game-accessories/meat-wall-shrine-space-chaos-knight-tabletop-terrain-ba4cb6d7-7734-4172-af9a-ad3099eedbd4","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":true,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/73iaLtuGHXTMMmiBvw3tbv1b/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/black-MeatWall_Front_v001.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/73iaLtuGHXTMMmiBvw3tbv1b/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/black-MeatWall_Front_v001.webp","gridCandidates":[{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/73iaLtuGHXTMMmiBvw3tbv1b/6a314ee64365e9a50cc847b264c0df438901d553e153606f3b641b8e48cb207e/black-MeatWall_Front_v001.webp","width":306},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/73iaLtuGHXTMMmiBvw3tbv1b/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/black-MeatWall_Front_v001.webp","width":612},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/73iaLtuGHXTMMmiBvw3tbv1b/fc2d80458320aed4ba722745705c02fa7f690497f6e3961b946cdf20c88a8c12/black-MeatWall_Front_v001.webp","width":918}],"isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/3d-print-models/games-toys/game-accessories/meat-wall-shrine-space-chaos-knight-tabletop-terrain-ba4cb6d7-7734-4172-af9a-ad3099eedbd4","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":17,"name":".max","is_native":true},{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"games-toys","subcategorySlug":"game-accessories","categoryTitle":"Games \u0026 Toys","subcategoryTitle":"Game Accessories","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/4666867/ae186bce25/meat-wall-shrine-space-chaos-knight-tabletop-terrain-3d-model-ae186bce25.webp","saleOffDiscount":50,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"4934248","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":4934248,"title":"Heinrich Hertz","price":29.99,"description":"Heinrich Rudolf Hertz  was a German physicist who first conclusively proved the existence of the electromagnetic waves predicted by James Clerk Maxwell's equations of electromagnetism.\nTested and printed with no problem.\n\nEnjoy\n\nHeinrich Hertz 3d, Heinrich Hertz 3d Model, Heinrich Hertz 3d printer, Heinrich Hertz bust, Heinrich Hertz toy. Heinrich Hertz 3d print, Heinrich Hertz figurine. Heinrich Hertz bust. 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Tesla 3d print, Tesla figurine. Tesla bust. Tesla stl.\n\nNikola Tesla 3d, Nikola Tesla 3d Model, Nikola Tesla 3d printer, Nikola Tesla bust, Nikola Tesla toy. Nikola Tesla 3d print, Nikola Tesla figurine. Nikola Tesla bust. 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James Clerk Maxwell 3d print, James Clerk Maxwell figurine. James Clerk Maxwell bust. 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