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Thanks you for see my 3d model.\n\nThis model is divide in two part, for prinint it in pla, detailed design that allows for close-up and renders, and the native model is made in hino, with grasshoppre pulg.in, and rendered in Keyshot. Renders have no postprocessing\n\nThis model of the cover for Huawei p smart-Z is ready for print, than you only load the file on your slicing program\n\nExclusive Original 3D Model design Realistic 3D model 1:1 solid 3D Model Keyshot 5.0 Rendering\n\n1.This model can be used for 3D printing and mold production.\n\n2.It can also be used to create** product animations and game props*.\n\n3.This rendering file can *render high-definition images and animations.\n\n_printing requirements_\n\nIt's dosent requite support, I recommend t ouse a layer heigh of 0,1mm and an infil of 10%\nI devide the cover in two part for print the cover in a rigid material like pla, and for make the cover usable\n\nFile Formats:\n\n.bip Keyshot render\n.fbx (multiformat mesh)\n.stl (multiformat mesh)\n.obj  (multiformat mesh)\n\nAlso check out my other models, just click on my user name to see complete gallery.\n\nIf you need a customized 3D model of other related products, please contact me at st3d.redy@gmail.com and our team can do it for you.","imageAlt":"3D printable model Cover for Huawei p 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It was originally serialized in Kodansha's shōjo manga magazine Nakayoshi from 1991 to 1997; the 60 individual chapters (later reorganized into 52) and several side stories were compiled into 18 tankōbon volumes. Set in Tokyo in the 1990s, the series follows the adventures of a schoolgirl named Usagi Tsukino as she transforms into the eponymous character to search for a magical artifact, the \"Legendary Silver Crystal\" (「幻の銀水晶」, Maboroshi no Ginsuishō; lit. \"Phantom Silver Crystal\"). She leads a group of comrades, the Sailor Soldiers, called Sailor Guardians in later editions, as they battle against villains to prevent the theft of the Silver Crystal and the destruction of the Solar System.*\n\n*The manga was written in conjunction with the airing of an anime series produced by Toei Animation, which was broadcast in Japan from 1992 to 1997.[4][5] Toei also developed three animated feature films, a television special, and three short films based on the anime. A live-action television adaptation, Pretty Guardian Sailor Moon, aired from 2003 to 2004, and a second anime series, Sailor Moon Crystal, began simulcasting in 2014. The manga series was licensed for an English release by Kodansha Comics in North America, and in Australia and New Zealand by Random House Australia. The entire anime series has been licensed by Viz Media for an English-language release in North America and by Madman Entertainment in Australia and New Zealand.*\n\n*Since its release, Sailor Moon has received critical acclaim, with praise for its art, characterization, and humor. The manga has sold over 46 million copies worldwide, making it one of the best-selling manga series, as well as one of the best-selling shōjo manga series of all time, marking its importance in the history of manga.[6] Additionally, the television series played a major role in popularizing anime in the Western world, particularly in the United States. 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You can use these 3D files to make yourself a cool Atlas gauntlet prop on the wall as there is a full one without hollowed interior, hollowed easy to carry one or if you know what you are getting into, motorized functional Atlas gauntlet.\n\nIf you receive \"mesh needs repair\" you can open it in software like flashprint that will give you option to automatically repair integrity. This has not been a problem at me, but I've seen/heard some people using different slicers and having this error. After fast and simple automatic repair, files will work normally.\n\nAtlas gauntlet from League of Legends / Arcane from what Vi uses. In the video and how I've done it is with 14 servos for every joint and motorized with a potentiometer inside. This project can though be printed and used as a prop without motorizing it. In the files is included the code for Arduino Uno to run the led strip and 14 servos via PCA 9865 board.\n\nI will provide as much information as possible here. If you are doing mechanised version, knowledge of electronics will be necessary to be able to work around this. Tools will be needed to make adjusments to 3D prints depending on how your printer (over extrude, under extrude, overall settings) are calibrated. There are couple variations of models, such as the finger pieces and outer shell for you to do what you wish with it. Right ones depend on your machinery and if you are planning on making a wall piece, small table piece, or wearable one.\n\nFor easy solution you can connect the fingers to each others with hot glue and be done with the prop after printing all the top parts. Install some sort of strap and you are golden. If you want more fucntionality, use nut's and bolt's instead of glue. Install a fishing wire to run through the fingers to your hand as the fingers are heavy enough to open on their own.\n\nFor mechanised version like this. Start building the fingers on floor with a breadboard, look at the pictures I have left in here. Build the main frames of the fingers and breadboard the wiring and everything to work. After you have the fingers moving on the floor connected to the PCA 9865 and Arduino Uno. Start slowly assembling it. Hot glue will be your savior in this project as it will be enough to hold the motors in place and pieces of plastic together. The top cover I suggest screwing into the internal hand socket cube for easier removing if problems occur. Hot glue or anything will work with that too.\nFirst when you have the fingers working, start connecting them into the hand cube (where you will have handle and potentiometer inside) with force and little sanding (depending on your printer extrusion ratio) the servos will fit nicely in there. Or you will make them fit in there with a bit of force, if you have underextrusion in your printer, you might need to add glue or something else to hold the servos in place.\n\nYou are running power from your battery to the PCA 9865 and have grounded everything together, great, connect potentiometer to the handle inside the hand cube, depending on your potentiometer you might need to make more space for it or again put it in place with hot glue etc. Connect potentiometer to the Arduino Uno and you have control over your fingers. Now that the mechanical part is done. Start creating the top cover.\nSlide led strip cables through the openings you have left to the top cover under neath the resin area. Tape oven paper or weight down oven paper on the resin rail and fill it with resin. After curing you should have a resin piece that fills out the room and goes nicely over the LED's.\nScrew everything together and hope for the best. If something isn't working, a wire has probably come loose. If you are using plastic gear servos like SG90's those will most likely break as that is how I built it first and those all started breaking under the weight.\n\nComes with battery back STL for 6V 48mAh battery. There are also non hollowed 3D files for just a prop on a wall case. For thumb, print the first and last joints of fingers, there's also file thumb set with socket. Included also plates for first joints of fingers, which I ended up myself painting (golden parts)\n\nThis will definitely be a large project even if you are going to just make it a static prop, but here is list for motorized version of parts needed:\n- 3D printed parts. Some multiple ones.\n- 14 MG90 metal gear servos\n- Arduino Uno\n- PCA 9865 servo driver\n- 6V at least 12A battery\n- ton of jumperwire's\n- potentiometer\n- power switch for 6V 12A battery\n- soldering iron and tin\n- 19 led strip of WS2812 controllable led strip\n- nuts, bolts, screws\n- hot glue\n- resin for the see through top","imageAlt":"League of Legends Vi Atlas gauntlet 3D printable model 2","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/games-toys/toy/league-of-legends-vi-atlas-gauntlet-prop-or-cosplay","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/AHAmCGH1SU3krqhYv21q6ZLL/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/IMG_20221201_104121.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/AHAmCGH1SU3krqhYv21q6ZLL/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/IMG_20221201_104121.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/games-toys/toy/league-of-legends-vi-atlas-gauntlet-prop-or-cosplay","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"games-toys","subcategorySlug":"toy","categoryTitle":"Games \u0026 Toys","subcategoryTitle":"Toys","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/4141751/77ec5e219a/league-of-legends-vi-atlas-gauntlet-prop-or-cosplay-3d-model-77ec5e219a.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"5081373","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":5081373,"title":"Prosthethic arm with EMG or Audio control Includes code","price":0.0,"description":"In use video:\n\nhttps://youtu.be/FPpW6IeLPjg\n\nThis is a long-time project that I've been working on, designing and modeling, printing, failing, and succeeding. I will try to note everything about making of this project here as simple as possible. The idea of this has been ease of access, ease of building, and access to components anywhere. Hope this is an item you can build for anyone you know who is in need of them with basic ready-to-print 3D printers, such as Flashforge Finder and Adventurer. Cheap, strong, and fast to build. Code will be included so the best scenario is that you don't need to code the Arduino Nano at all yourself and just upload the code there with Arduino IDE software that is free on Arduino site.\n\nEMG sensor is probably the most expensive and hardest one to find cheap, but you can use your own judgment on that. In Ali Express and other Chinese stores, you can get a hold of these dry EMG sensors for about 40-50 euros/dollars.\n\nItem's you will need to make this project are:\n\n-printed files, some sanding might be needed for all joints to be loose.\n\n-thin metal wire that goes through the finger joints and palm joint, I've used 1-2mm thick myself.\n\n-fishing line or fishing rope. I ended up using 90KG fishing rope as the 20KG servo motor ended up breaking 60KG fishing rope for some reason. I assume fish and motors are not the same. This is used to connect tip of the fingers to the servo arm.\n\n-elastic band, stronger is better if you can get your hands on it, but double or triple layer weak is enough also. This will be used to re-bounce fingers open when hold is toggled off.\n\n-15-20KG servo motor with metal arm and full metal gears. Plastic ones will break. I've used 20KG waterproof servos from Miuzei. These are cheap, strong and quiet. With 15KG motors I ended up having the servo struggle to hold grip on heavy objects.\n\n-batteries, I used battery packs made for RC cars as these come with usb chargers and are easy to hook up and charge. I used 2 x 6V 2400mAh soldered in Parallel so the voltage is 6V and mAh is 4800\n\n-rocker switch and 3 micro buttons. Rocker switch for power and micro buttons for locking feature and muscle reading value changing.\n\n-I2C led monitor is not necessary, but I decided to use one for convinience of knowing the value of muscle reading threshold and if the lock or open status in on. I used extremely cheap 0,9inch monitors or about 2cm x 1cm monitor.\n\n-EMG sensor with hopefully a dry sensor. Dry sensor is the small piece with 3 metallic sensors instead of needing the attachable medical ones. These can be found cheap on AliExpress. These have certain limitations, but for this project they work and are extremely affordable.\n\n-Arduino Nano. Official one is needed or third party that has exactly same power deliveries. I found my code and whole system running on third party Arduino Nano's or Arduino Nano clones not to function properly and having a lot of power dropping problems. Then I read about the power delivery differences in official and clone's data sheet. Included code in the .INO file is designed for the sensor that looks like the one in the pictures. This can be found easily in AliExpress and other online stores.\n\n-shunt resistor 1 ohm 5 watt. This will get a bit warm so get a good metalfilm one. You can also go higher, but code will be need a bit a of change as the analog read this is used to get signal of electricity will change.\n\n-jumper wires, small wires overall.\n\n-garden glove or work glove with a rubber/antislide inside of palm that fits over the finger/palm size you print.\n\n-wide velcro type strap, or you can use thin ones also and scale the model of 10cm wide velcro strap to your need. I found better thing to be luggage strap, but if you get to the point of this being decision, you for sure can make artistic decision.\n\n-electrical tape\n\n-hot glue\n\nIf when imported to slicing software, imported STL files are small, normal size is achieved by scaling 10x the stl in the slicing software. There are cubes as measurements in some of the STL files for 1cm scaling check inside the slicer. FPP files are Flashprint slicer files that you can print or export as STL or Gcode with free software called Flashprint. Flashprint lets you cut and slice objects to separate so you can separate printing pieces or item pieces to print. Flashprint is also used on Flashforge printers natively.\n\nBut let's start the project, I try to cover everything in here in a simple matter and add pictures to the item that will help you follow. Though in most parts there's quite little room for error as I've tried to simplify the project and add angles that will make placing items wrong way hard.\n\nFirst you'll have to print all the version 5 files and strap loops for velcro connections. I personally found best to use 10cm velcro strap and company it with 7,5cm velcro as there's two points of scale for the arm.\n\nGreat job printing those pieces. You will be now getting your first other tools. Take metal wire and connect fingers to the palm and all fingers to each others. These should be so loose that it looks like a marionette and all fingers loosely shook everywhere when shaken. Now you can cut the elastic piece to a appropriate size so it goes over the joints of fingers. Position the hand palm down. This way fingers are loosely dragging on table. Drops of hot glue on finger joint and palm. Put the piece of elastic band in such a way that it's tight enough that it carries the finger up in the air straight. Repeat this until you have all fingers pointing straight when hand palm is pointing down, but the elastic bands are tight enough so fingers are not loose to that direction anymore.\n\nYou are now going to follow the wiring picture and wire everything as written and drawn down. If you decide to change connections places, remember to change them in the code also. Combine batteries in a line that you can drop inside the arm shield. After you have wired everything and power on the system, servo will rotate to it's default place, which would be close to open palm position. You can now disrupt the signal in the EMG sensor to get the servo move from A to B and then B to A. Also you can test your dry sensor out, remember that finding a position can be hard at first. Try it out and change the values of stiffness kovuus. What I often did before I knew my muscles and values, I put the muscle sensor on my arm where a muscle can be felt easily when flexed, IE bicep. When you keep your arm relaxed and hold the button to put kovuus to 0, servo will turn constantly from other end to other. Then add some value until it stops moving, this is your baseline movement in that muscle. Now the servo will probably move instantly when you move your arm as it's put on the very limit of flexing. Add more value until you are comfortable with the tension required.\n\nServo can be placed in couple different ways, to the top or to the side as in pictures shown.\n\nNow to the aligning of the metal arm on the servo. When you move the servo back and forth with your muscle. Look at the positioning and screw the servo arm in place when servo is on it's side and arm pointing down. This way the arm pulls towards your body when muscle is read to close the fist. You will get a good idea of this in the pictures about the servo positioning.\n\nWhen building the palm and wrist together, drill holes to both parts and put some metal rods if possible to the joint, this will give strength to the palm's and wrist's joint when Servo pulls the ropes through it.\n\nHot glue the servo in it's place and check that the arm moves properly before adding glue. Do the same for buttons and monitor which are in the top cover. Though depending if you have finalized the wiring and wires are already attached, you might first want to do the fishing rope stuff before attaching the cover shield to the wrist part.\n\nSlide rope through fingers to the servo arm. I found best way to calculate the fist and open hand length of rope to make a loop from rope to the servo arm. Then tie finger ropes to that loop. Tell the servo to move to the closed fist position and then tighten the ropes while holding the fingers in a closed fist which would be last position of them. Tie the ropes ends to the fingertips. This can be extremely frustrating process, helping hand from anyone is great here.\n\nEverything should now be in pretty much at place. You can hot glue the battery cover to the wrist part and slide the dual battery inside, leaving power wire to the end for easy charging and putting power to the arm. Hot glue the arm cover on and velcro to the wrist and everything is starting to look pretty good.\n\nFor putting the glove. Cut the thumb separate from the glove and pull the glove on the 4 fingers first. Hot glue to the palm stopper and wrist shield and this will keep the glove tight on the fingers. Do the same for thumb.\n\n-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------\n\nFor audio readings it is pretty much the same approach, but with different code. Code will be included here. Main thing is to get the voice recognition module 3 and use it's own manual to record what ever commands you want there.\n\n\nPost-Printing\nSanding fingers and re-drilling holes if needed\nDepending on printing settings, you might need to make holes in fingers and hand for strings to larger. All fingers should be as loose as possible before connecting rubberbands.\n\n","imageAlt":"3D print model Prosthethic arm with EMG or Audio control 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Sandals","price":0.0,"description":"\u003cp\u003eSlip your feet into these open-toed sandals.\u003c/p\u003e","imageAlt":"T-Rex Sandals 3D print model","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/fashion/shoe/t-rex-sandals","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/P8e13brPt8ercK7PxDUuTTCR/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/t-rex-sandals-3d-model-stl.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/P8e13brPt8ercK7PxDUuTTCR/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/t-rex-sandals-3d-model-stl.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/fashion/shoe/t-rex-sandals","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"fashion","subcategorySlug":"shoe","categoryTitle":"Fashion","subcategoryTitle":"Shoes","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/97611/4908de6fa4/t-rex-sandals-3d-model-4908de6fa4.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"250811","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":250811,"title":"Week end project M and M sorting machine","price":0.0,"description":"\u003ch1 class=\"thing-component-header summary\"\u003eSummary\u003c/h1\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis was a week-end project to create\u003cbr\u003e\r\na M\u0026M sorting machine.   \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eVideo:\u003cbr\u003e\r\n\u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://youtu.be/gFbJhNDCt2I\"\u003ehttp://youtu.be/gFbJhNDCt2I\u003c/a\u003e  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eCode/updates\u003cbr\u003e\r\n\u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https://github.com/keesj/3d-makelib/tree/master/mnm_sort\"\u003ehttps://github.com/keesj/3d-makelib/tree/master/mnm_sort\u003c/a\u003e\u003c/p\u003e","imageAlt":null,"url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/week-end-project-m-and-m-sorting-machine","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/J274fywABjNe7nL7iufYgaii/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/week-end-project-m-and-m-sorting-machine-3d-model-stl.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/J274fywABjNe7nL7iufYgaii/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/week-end-project-m-and-m-sorting-machine-3d-model-stl.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/week-end-project-m-and-m-sorting-machine","isCgtVerified":true,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":null,"name":null,"is_native":false},{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"hobby-accessories","categoryTitle":"Hobby 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for the 2kg ones)\n- HX711 board\n- 4 Digit seven segments digital display with TM1637 (that only has 4 pins, the dimensions are the ones in the link i add)\n- Arduino Nano and USB cable to program it.\n- Basic soldering skills\n- Wires both with and without pins for arduino\n- Optional: Step down converter 24/12V to 5V depending on the voltage of your 3d printer power supply, if you don’t use it get a wall adaptor and a severed usb cable \n- Hot Glue gun (you can probably find an alternative tho)\n- kitchen scale\n- Optional: Either a empty spool or a full one (or just know the weight of a spool)\n\nI think this can be a pretty cool Arduino project  and it's pretty simple i found it pretty amusing i suggest understanding how it works too if you wanna get into this kind of stuff.\nA pdf guide on how to assemble it is also included in the downloadable files and the ino file for the arduino script other than the 7 stl files.\nThe total cost is pretty low if you go with Chinese websites for electronics but it's not that bad even with amazon even tho prices are high for electronics there.\n**Note that the reading is acceptable only while not printing because of the tension of the filament.**","imageAlt":"3D print model Arduino based spool holder with weight 1","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/arduino-based-spool-holder-with-weight-sensor","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/VJiRP5yxJJrW8nqzA2wfsoHs/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/photo6044199242941184101.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/VJiRP5yxJJrW8nqzA2wfsoHs/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/photo6044199242941184101.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/electronics/arduino-based-spool-holder-with-weight-sensor","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false},{"id":100,"name":".pdf","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"electronics","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Electronics","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/2992119/e5fb6da460/arduino-based-spool-holder-with-weight-sensor-3d-model-e5fb6da460.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"2797830","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":2797830,"title":"Karen from spongebob","price":0.0,"description":"This is karen, plankton's robot from spongebob. It's made out of 5 parts: the monitor, the green screen (which is printed in green translucent resin, it can be replaced by any green filter if you're printing in FDM), the tube which contains the wires, the base and finally the insert to keep the arduino in place. You can just leave it hollow, or put a 0.96\" OLED spi screen in the monitor, and connect it to a wemos D1 mini in the base, using the tube to route the cables. I've included a .ino file that contains a simple looping animation. At the moment, I'm working on a code that displays the current price of Ripple (XRP) on screen instead of the animation, that's what you can see in the screenshots. You can easily add your own 128x64 px animations.","imageAlt":"Karen from spongebob 3D printable model","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/art/sculpture/karen-from-spongebob","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/JDcpbnX2v2ezUp6NAbWwpraW/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/IMG_20210107_230022.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/JDcpbnX2v2ezUp6NAbWwpraW/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/IMG_20210107_230022.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/art/sculpture/karen-from-spongebob","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"art","subcategorySlug":"sculpture","categoryTitle":"Art \u0026 Design","subcategoryTitle":"Sculptures","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/2797830/51ad83be9b/karen-from-spongebob-3d-model-stl.jpg","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"5915483","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":5915483,"title":"Yoshi Egg - keycap to print","price":0.0,"description":"The History of Yoshi: Nintendo's Most Beloved Dinosaur\nSince his debut in Super Mario World (1990) for the Super Nintendo, Yoshi has become one of Nintendo's most iconic characters. Designed by Shigefumi Hino, this adorable green dinosaur was created to assist Mario and Luigi on their quest to rescue Princess Peach. Inspired by reptiles and featuring innovative mechanics, Yoshi could jump, eat enemies, and throw eggs—abilities that made him unique in the Mario universe.\n\nOver the years, Yoshi has starred in his own series with games like Yoshi’s Island, Yoshi’s Story, and Yoshi’s Crafted World, cementing his status as one of the most beloved characters. His most iconic feature, the spotted eggs, are not only a key gameplay element but have also appeared in multiple Nintendo games, from Super Smash Bros. to Mario Kart.\n\nAnd now, you can bring a piece of Yoshi’s history to your keyboard with our keycap inspired by his legendary egg! \n\nThe Yoshi egg has hatched... on your keyboard! \nIf you're a Yoshi fan, this keycap is for you! Add a geeky and nostalgic touch to your setup with our design inspired by Yoshi’s iconic egg.\n\nEasy to print\nDetailed and faithful to the original design\nCompatible with mechanical keyboards\n\nDownload the STL and personalize your keyboard with a Nintendo classic!","imageAlt":"3D printable model Yoshi Egg - keycap to print","url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/games-toys/game-accessories/yoshi-egg-keycap-to-print","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/92ctnm2qe90klef5kk8r6rojrctc/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/yoshi%20egg%20imagen%20de%20portada.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/92ctnm2qe90klef5kk8r6rojrctc/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/yoshi%20egg%20imagen%20de%20portada.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/games-toys/game-accessories/yoshi-egg-keycap-to-print","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":12,"name":".obj","is_native":false},{"id":5,"name":".fbx","is_native":false},{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"games-toys","subcategorySlug":"game-accessories","categoryTitle":"Games \u0026 Toys","subcategoryTitle":"Game Accessories","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/5915483/677a09b8ef/yoshi-egg-keycap-to-print-3d-model-677a09b8ef.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"5678744","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":5678744,"title":"Helmet KyoryuRed ","price":0.0,"description":"Helmet KyoryuRed","imageAlt":null,"url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/helmet-kyoryured","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/dExNsRNXy94uRNoTyvkzyGv8/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/untitled.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/dExNsRNXy94uRNoTyvkzyGv8/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/untitled.webp","isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/helmet-kyoryured","isCgtVerified":false,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":12,"name":".obj","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"hobby-accessories","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Hobby Accessories","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/5678744/918d046122/helmet-kyoryured-3d-model-918d046122.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"232635","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":232635,"title":"PSP PiStation Portable","price":0.0,"description":"\u003ch1 class=\"thing-component-header summary\"\u003eSummary\u003c/h1\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis is my Retropie Portable implementation.  I put it together as a design challenge, a chance to learn more about using the Raspberry Pi, and to have a fun hand-held battery-powered gaming console.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMy main design goal was to have good ergonomics.  This design fits nicely with my large hands, with an analog joystick that I find more comfortable than a D-pad.  I really didn't like the feel of the little tactile membrane buttons everyone else is using, so I opted for these nice 16mm illuminated mechanical pushbuttons instead.  They have a really smooth action, feel much nicer for prolonged play sessions, and have the additional bonus of being panel mount instead of PCB mount which makes fitting them in the case simpler.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThere are only 2 pieces to print with this design.  Admittedly, they are large pieces, about 240mm wide.  Mechanical assembly is simple, nearly all the electrical parts attach to the case with small self-tapping screws, most of them to the front half with just the battery and charger board attaching to the rear.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIt has an internal battery charger, and can be played while charging - although you will discharge faster than you charge, so you still need to shut down to recharge fully.  The second USB port on the PI is accessible, so you can plug in a USB drive to transfer roms, or an external keyboard for configuration or emulating systems needing a keyboard.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eI'm using a Teensy 2.0 for the joystick function.  There is a mode switch button which can be used to switch the teensy into a keyboard emulator mode that maps the joystick to arrow keys and the various buttons to certain keypresses, so you can navigate the file transfer utility and some of the other configuration menus without needing a keyboard.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eNo internal speakers - the amp was drawing too much current and the speakers were hard to fit, so I decided to make it headphone-only.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eI wouldn't recommend that anyone build this as is and am uploading it for reference purposes.  There are a handful of things that I'm not happy with that would be fixed on a redesign.  For one thing, I'm using an original model Raspberry Pi B for this, while a new design should be based around a Pi 2.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThese pictures were taken before I had the soft power control circuit working.  Since then I have replaced the toggle switch with a button and included a circuit to turn power on by button-press and off when the Pi shuts down.  A schematic is included.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIn order to fit everything in the space behind the display, I had to forgo connector and solder wires directly to the back of the Raspberry Pi.  Between that and all the wires to the illuminated pushbuttons, this is not a design to attempt unless you're very comfortable with a soldering iron.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe case is nearly 240mm wide, so you'll need a large bed printer to print it.  It barely fit on my 250mm circular bed.  Both front and rear case halves will need to be printed with support.\u003c/p\u003e\u003ch1 class=\"thing-component-header custom instructions\"\u003eInstructions\u003c/h1\u003e\u003cp\u003eParts I used:  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e1 printed front case half\u003cbr\u003e\r\n1 printed rear case half  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eRaspBerry Pi Model B:     \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https://www.adafruit.com/products/998\"\u003ehttps://www.adafruit.com/products/998\u003c/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\nTeensy 2.0:     \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://www.adafruit.com/products/199\"\u003ehttp://www.adafruit.com/products/199\u003c/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\nBattery:   \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https://www.adafruit.com/products/328\"\u003ehttps://www.adafruit.com/products/328\u003c/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\nPowerboost 500 + charger:  \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"https://www.adafruit.com/product/1944\"\u003ehttps://www.adafruit.com/product/1944\u003c/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\n2-axis analog joystick:     \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://www.adafruit.com/products/245\"\u003ehttp://www.adafruit.com/products/245\u003c/a\u003e  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eIlluminated pushbuttons:  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e2x white:  \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://www.adafruit.com/products/1479\"\u003ehttp://www.adafruit.com/products/1479\u003c/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\n1x red:  \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://www.adafruit.com/products/1439\"\u003ehttp://www.adafruit.com/products/1439\u003c/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\n1x green:  \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://www.adafruit.com/products/1440\"\u003ehttp://www.adafruit.com/products/1440\u003c/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\n1x yellow:  \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://www.adafruit.com/products/1441\"\u003ehttp://www.adafruit.com/products/1441\u003c/a\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\n3x blue:  \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://www.adafruit.com/products/1477\"\u003ehttp://www.adafruit.com/products/1477\u003c/a\u003e  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eI also used two non-illuminated buttons from this pack of 15:  \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://www.adafruit.com/products/1009\"\u003ehttp://www.adafruit.com/products/1009\u003c/a\u003e   \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e8gb SD card from amazon or anywhere else really\u003cbr\u003e\r\n4.3\" TFT Display: \u003ca rel=\"nofollow\" href=\"http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CFLMNC\"\u003ehttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CFLMNC\u003c/a\u003e  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe toggle switch show in some of the pictures is not included in the final design, being replaced by a button along with the new power control circuit attached to the Powerboost 500.  Note that you will have to desolder one part on the Powerboost board to use the included power control circuit.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFive 220 ohm 1/8W resistors for the blue and white illuminated pushbuttons, and three 330 ohm 1/8W resistors for the red, yellow, and green illuminated pushbuttons.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe display was modified by removing the stand, rear case, and small board with pushbuttons.  I also desoldered the cable off the main board and replaced it with wires soldered directly to the back of the Raspberry Pi for power and composite video.  The display I used seems to be able to run directly off 5V without modification and I have it taking power directly from a header on the Pi.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eFor the connection between the Teensy and the Pi, I cut an old USB cable in half and soldered wires directly to the USB connector pins on the underside of the Pi.  Note that this has to be done to the 4 pins closer to the edge of the board to get the lower USB port, leaving the upper one free for an external USB device.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe Teensy is wired to the joystick, 8 illuminated pushbuttons, and 1 non-illuminated pushbutton.  Connections are as follows:  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAnalog 0: x input from joystick\u003cbr\u003e\r\nAnalog 1: y input from joystick\u003cbr\u003e\r\nDigital 0: A button\u003cbr\u003e\r\nDigital 1: X button\u003cbr\u003e\r\nDigital 2: Y button\u003cbr\u003e\r\nDigital 3: B button\u003cbr\u003e\r\nDigital 4: R button\u003cbr\u003e\r\nDigital 5: L button\u003cbr\u003e\r\nDigital 6: Start button\u003cbr\u003e\r\nDigital 7: Select button\u003cbr\u003e\r\nDigital 8: mode select button  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe display screen, the Raspberry Pi, and the Powerboost are held in place with small self-tapping screws.  I use the ones that come with the micro servos my robots keep going through since I have a lot of them spare.  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