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It helps us a lot to continue working with great enthusiasm!**\n\n**BLACK TORCH INC. is not responsible for any misuse of the product. 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The files for these models will be released for free download on Thingiverse under a Creative Commons BY-SA-NC License. \nEach physical work in this series is also available for purchase through a manufacture-on-demand system. The models are being produced in New Zealand using the Open Source RepRap 3D printer (with Vik Olliver). Order editions on the project webpage: http://bronwyn.co.nz/projects/whisper-down-the-lane \nThe project will start with one work and will then gradually grow over the course of the exhibition as new works are completed and released. To receive notifications of new releases follow @hollowaysmith on Twitter, or join the mailing list at http://bronwyn.co.nz/contact/ \nUpdate 16 August 2013: The working files for the arm, body, hood, and the actual layout we printed from have now been uploaded all zipped up in a .tgz folder for your convenience :)\u003c/p\u003e\n\n\u003ca href=\"http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/\"\u003eThis model is licensed under the Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike license.\u003c/a\u003e\n\u003ca href=\"http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-sa/3.0/\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"\u003eThis model is licensed under the Attribution - Non-Commercial - Share Alike license.\u003c/a\u003e","imageAlt":null,"url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/after-glen-hayward-s-open-circuit-security-camera","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/jdALCSu88TFjPYCaJ8Z4F9WT/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/after-glen-hayward-s-open-circuit-security-camera-3d-model-stl.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/jdALCSu88TFjPYCaJ8Z4F9WT/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/after-glen-hayward-s-open-circuit-security-camera-3d-model-stl.webp","gridCandidates":[{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/jdALCSu88TFjPYCaJ8Z4F9WT/6a314ee64365e9a50cc847b264c0df438901d553e153606f3b641b8e48cb207e/after-glen-hayward-s-open-circuit-security-camera-3d-model-stl.webp","width":306},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/jdALCSu88TFjPYCaJ8Z4F9WT/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/after-glen-hayward-s-open-circuit-security-camera-3d-model-stl.webp","width":612},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/jdALCSu88TFjPYCaJ8Z4F9WT/fc2d80458320aed4ba722745705c02fa7f690497f6e3961b946cdf20c88a8c12/after-glen-hayward-s-open-circuit-security-camera-3d-model-stl.webp","width":918}],"isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/mechanical-parts/after-glen-hayward-s-open-circuit-security-camera","isCgtVerified":true,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":51,"name":".stl","is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"mechanical-parts","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Mechanical parts","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/74904/629b02fbdf/after-glen-hayward-s-open-circuit-security-camera-3d-model-629b02fbdf.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"7319898","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":7319898,"title":"Renault Clio 2 RS Vertical Headlight Support Bracket - Support ","price":9.9,"description":"This vertical headlight mounting bracket (support vertical optique) is engineered for the Renault Clio II RS platform (Phase 1 / 2, 172, and 182). 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Glass lampshades: clear, smoky and amber.\nDezenter Metallrahmen. 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I'm sure there are other uses for them.  They are intended for mounting with some tape or glue, whatever you want to use.  A couple of the brackets could possibly be drilled and screwed.  \n\nThere are 7 bracket types.  Only one is for the longer roller.  There are 3 rollers, 1 longer, and 2 shorter.  Of the 2 shorter ones, one has a slightly smaller groove about .160 inches wide, about 5/32 of an inch.  Each of the rollers uses the same roller pin inserted into one end.  Insert the end that attaches to the print plate, not that it really matters that much but the other end has a small fillet on it.  Then that assembly snaps into the bracket of your choice.\n\nI included all the seperate .stp files and a .3MF file for my Bambu Studio settings.  I printed on a Bambu Lab X1C, with a Wham Bam PEX Plate.  There is also a .zip file with all the listed files.\nThere is an image on this page of all the .stp files loaded into Bambu Studio, which shows all the bracket shapes.  I loaded pictures of a few of the different models seperately.\n\nI printed everything with a .4 mm nozzle, at .08 mm layer height.  I printed everything at mostly 200 mm/s, could probably print a bit faster.  I stuck with 2 walls on everything, which should be enough.  I also added brims to the rollers and the roller pin.  You might need to make changes in the .3MF file depending on what kind of build plate you use.\n\nI have not mounted any of these, but just by testing I noticed that they don't really even need to roll.  The spool slides nicely even if they don't roll.\n\nI'm attempting a 150% print now.  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The oval holes are to hold a pair of zip-ties in place.  \u003cbr\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\nMore info about my quad can be found here - \u003ca href=\"http://eddiem.com/tikiwiki/tiki-index.php?page=Blackhawk+tandem+quad\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"nofollow\"\u003eeddiem.com/tikiwiki/tiki-index.php?page=Blackhawk+tandem+quad\u003c/a\u003e\u003c/p\u003e","imageAlt":null,"url":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/bits-for-blackhawk-lowboy-2-quad-wheeled-powered-paraglider","isCLDApplicable":false,"isSaleOffApplicable":false,"gaAttributes":{},"primaryImage":{"gridFallbackUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/yZzdBUueuTsByvpSqiusFwy2/a26e47dab5f2d22c43d6c5ce4b4b46ecc30c70918878397cba1a10c1e35d7bfc/bits-for-blackhawk-lowboy-2-quad-wheeled-powered-paraglider-3d-model.jpg","gridUrl":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/yZzdBUueuTsByvpSqiusFwy2/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/bits-for-blackhawk-lowboy-2-quad-wheeled-powered-paraglider-3d-model.webp","gridCandidates":[{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/yZzdBUueuTsByvpSqiusFwy2/6a314ee64365e9a50cc847b264c0df438901d553e153606f3b641b8e48cb207e/bits-for-blackhawk-lowboy-2-quad-wheeled-powered-paraglider-3d-model.webp","width":306},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/yZzdBUueuTsByvpSqiusFwy2/78add9c2f02fbd73a43ffb3970be38683c5f15eff6ca849dc78c644f4ff9ce1b/bits-for-blackhawk-lowboy-2-quad-wheeled-powered-paraglider-3d-model.webp","width":612},{"url":"https://media.cgtrader.com/variants/yZzdBUueuTsByvpSqiusFwy2/fc2d80458320aed4ba722745705c02fa7f690497f6e3961b946cdf20c88a8c12/bits-for-blackhawk-lowboy-2-quad-wheeled-powered-paraglider-3d-model.webp","width":918}],"isAdultContent":false},"modelInfo":{"modelUrl":"https://www.cgtrader.com/free-3d-print-models/hobby-diy/hobby-accessories/bits-for-blackhawk-lowboy-2-quad-wheeled-powered-paraglider","isCgtVerified":true,"types":{"printReady":true,"animated":false,"pbr":false,"rigged":false,"lowPoly":false}},"metaverseFormatsList":[{"id":null,"name":null,"is_native":false}],"categorySlug":"hobby-diy","subcategorySlug":"hobby-accessories","categoryTitle":"Hobby \u0026 DIY","subcategoryTitle":"Hobby Accessories","schemaImageUrl":"https://img-new.cgtrader.com/items/75466/52ca12edd5/bits-for-blackhawk-lowboy-2-quad-wheeled-powered-paraglider-3d-model-52ca12edd5.webp","saleOffDiscount":0,"eligibleForSubscription":false,"subscriptionSubscribed":false,"subscriptionPotential":false,"subscriptionTierBand":null}},{"id":"7473395","type":"listingItem","attributes":{"id":7473395,"title":"Saab 9-5 Bass Habit Remote Bracket","price":9.9,"description":"This model is a Saab 9-5 Bass Habit Remote Bracket designed as a functional 3D printable modeling solution.\n\nSpecially created for Saab 9-5 vehicles, it securely mounts the Bass Habit subwooferamplifier remote control. 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I needed to print objects which were near the maximum size of the TOM build envelope, and found that when printing at the corners of the platform the cable would frequently become pinched between the build platform or Y stage and the TOM enclosure, stalling the servos and ruining the print.  I also didn't like how the cables would rub against the Y stage smooth rods and pully sometimes, and wanted to do something about a strain relief for the HBP connector.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis Thing is the result, a system of parts which completely encloses the cable and forces it to move in a predictable path that stays out of the way of the build platform and Y stage, and also acts as some degree of a strain relief for the build platform and Y axis endstop connectors.  With this Thing my TOM can print objects filling the entire print volume reliably.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe chain link is anchored in three spots.  The X stage end anchors to the wooden rib on the right side of the build platform.  This will require a small hole to be drilled for a bolt to hold this piece in place.  A zip-tie is used here to secure the HBP cable.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe centerpoint piece attaches to the right side of the Y stage.  This requires removing one of the rod endcap plates and attaching the printed part in its place.  This is the most annoying part of the installation as you have to partially dissassemble the end of the Y stage to get this piece in place.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe baseplate anchor is the easiest to install, it just snap-fits into the square hole in the corner of the clear plastic plate.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe cable links snap together, and can be installed after you have the anchor pieces in place.  I use 9 links between the build platform and the midpoint anchor, and 10 between the midpoint and the baseplate anchor, but you may find different numbers work better for you depending on how long your cables are.  Each chain link has slots where you can zip-tie the wires in place if you desire, although I haven't found that to be necessary.  These chain links may also be useful by themselves in other applications where you need to control the movement of a moving cable bundle.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThis Thing can be attached to an existing TOM without having to disconnect any cables in the process.\u003c/p\u003e\u003ch1 class=\"thing-component-header custom instructions\"\u003eInstructions\u003c/h1\u003e\u003cp\u003ePrint out one baseplate anchor, one midpoint anchor, one X stage anchor, and five of the four chain link piece (for 20 links in total).\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eClean up the parts.  File out the holes in the chains and the sliding surfaces until the chains flex smoothly when snapped together.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePress a single M3 hex nut into the slot in the base of the X stage anchor.  Make sure it lines up with the hole through this piece.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePut the X stage anchor in place on the rib and mark the hole location.  Remove the anchor and drill a small hole in that spot.  Put the X stage anchor back in place and use a singe M3x16 machine screw to hold it in place.  Use a zip-tie to anchor the HBP cable to this piece.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eTake apart the right side of the Y platform, and remove the endcap from the front rod.  Tuck the HBP cable into the groove in the centerpoint anchor, then attach the centerpoint anchor in place of the smooth rod endcap you removed.  Reassemble the right side of the Y platform.  Optionally, zip-tie the HBP cable and the Y axis endstop cable to the centerpoint anchor, using the two slots provided.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSnap together 9 links of chain between the X stage anchor and the centerpoint anchor.  Note that the chain link closest to the centerpoint anchor has to be installed in the opposite direction from the others in order for the cable to be able to make the 90 degree turn.\u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003ePlace the baseplate anchor around the cable coming off the Y stage.  Place a chain link on the other side of the cable, and then snap them together so that the cable is going through the anchor and the chain.  Press the anchor down into the hole in the base plate as far as it will go, then tilt it towards the front of the machine and then move it as far forward as it will go.  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Who needs a mechanic when you can DIY in style?\n\nNotes to Buyers:\n\n• For best fitment, please use brass insert for screw thread\n\n• Due to the bottom is slightly curved, so it cannot print directly on the build plate, therefore, it need to be elevated\n\n• For ease of orientation, please use the 3mf Edited file for the best print quality\n\n• For best durability, this item should be printed with ABS filament\n\n• This part is designed for one side only. You can easily flip it to obtain the other side using your slicer program before printing.\n\n• Refunds cannot be issued for digital downloads, so please ensure that you are satisfied with the provided information and file details before completing your purchase\n\n• If you have any questions or concerns regarding the product, compatibility, or usage, please don't hesitate to contact us. 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On angled thin walled prints, the Replicator 2 output cooling fan would sometimes push the filament to the right causing it miss the layer below.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eI wanted to remedy this by having the air come from both sides.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eMy previous version of the fan duct suffered on some machines by being too low and as it was supported on one side, would hang down on the right.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eI realised that I could support the duct by clipping it on both sides of the carriage.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eI started out by making something that would clip on, then I attached it to the fan and then added the air ducts.  The first attempt enclosed the heating element too much and was too low.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eAfter printing for about three hours, a PLA version of the final design started to soften in the middle which meant that the clips at the sides became loose.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eI reprinted it in T-Glass and for good measure, I applied some copper tape to dissipate some of the heat.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eThe one photographed (blue) has printed continuously for 10 hours at 250 degrees (Nylon) and shows no signs of melting.  It was cool to the touch when I removed it after the print.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eI have marked this as work-in-progress as I have only used it for a few days and it may need adjusting.  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003eSome air flow analysis would certainly help, but I'm afraid I don't have any such tools :( so I'll have to settle for the empirical approach...  Unless you can help?  \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eUpdate\u003c/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\nI found the airflow from the small holes was too powerful, I've produced a version with wider holes that is more gentle whilst still providing air from 3 sides.   \u003c/p\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cstrong\u003eAnother Update!\u003c/strong\u003e\u003cbr\u003e\r\nFisk4 asked if I could widen it for the people who've bought the Aluminium upgrade, apparently the body is 1.5 mm wider. 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responsable for your camera :-)\u003cbr\u003e\r\nMake sure your parts are strong and fit well, use sand paper or file if necessary.\u003c/p\u003e\r\n\u003ch1 class=\"thing-component-header custom instructions\"\u003eInstructions\u003c/h1\u003e\r\n\u003cp\u003eTo assemble your MTB Frame side mount you will need:\u003cbr\u003e\r\n1 1/4\" x 10mm screw\u003cbr\u003e\r\n1 1/4\"  washer\u003cbr\u003e\r\n2 M4x16mm flat head screws\u003cbr\u003e\r\n2 M4 nuts\u003cbr\u003e\r\n1 piece of double-sided tape.\u003cbr\u003e\r\n2 Hellerman clamps  \u003c/p\u003e\r\n\u003cp\u003ePlease note the female clip base was rotated 45° to match most of  lower bars of bike frames.\u003cbr\u003e\r\nUse double-sided tape to fine tune rotation angle, than hellerman clamps.  \u003c/p\u003e\r\n\u003cp\u003eMore instruction images, photos and videos coming soon\u003c/p\u003e","imageAlt":"ActionCam Stuff 3D printable 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I found that my Ultimaker had some issues reproducing technical models accurately leading to issues with fit of screw holes, etc.\r\nThis calibration piece allows to adjust the X,Y and Z-STEPS appropriately.\r\nJust print this piece and then carefully measure the 3 sides with a Caliper. Make sure you don't include the first layers as they usually come out slightly wider. \r\nThe calibration object is 100mm on X and Y axis and 50mm on the Z-Axis.  \r\nYou can then calibrate your STEPS using this formula:  \r\nX,Y-Axis: 100 / [measured length in mm]  *  [current STEPS]  \r\nZ-Axis: X,Y-Axis: 50 / [measured height in mm]  *  [current STEPS]  \r\nFor example my X Axis X-STEPS were 78.4 and I measured the side to be 99.27:  \r\n100/99.27 * 78.4 = 78.97  \r\nI repeated this for all Axis. \r\nYou then can set these values either in the printer itself, or in my case I compiled my MARLIN firmware myself and configured it right in the source code in \"Configuration/h\": \r\n`#define DEFAULT_AXIS_STEPS_PER_UNIT   {78.97,79.26,535.44,760*1.1}  // default steps per unit for Ultimaker`  \r\nAfter a second print with the new settings my object measured a correct 100.07 x 100.05 x 50.02mm. \r\nBe aware that PLA and ABS loose volume when cooling at different ratios. So that calibration will only be 100% accurate for the material you have done it for. ABS typically has a shrinkage ratio of 0.5% to 0.9% depending on the raw ABS material used by the manufacturer. PLA typically much less. For [ExcelFil ABS Filament](http://3d.voltivo.com) that shrinkage factor is a low 0.5%. \r\nA good way to account for that would be to calibrate your printer to the material you use most first and then print the other material and measure the deviation. Most slicers allow for scaling the source model. 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