Young Achilles by RG 3D print model
All models test printed and confirmed. (See images). Printed on Creality CR-10 S4 at 240mm hight using PLA- at 232c, Nozzle- .4mm, Layer Height- .2mm, Walls- 5Top 4Side 4Bottom, Speed- 15mmSec, Supports- Yes, Infill- 15%, Raft- Yes set to 2base layers and 2Top 100% top infill layer with no seperation, Cooling-None. Thoughts: A large test print at 240mm tall was risky but took the chance and got some banding at about chest hieght (see images) so I dialed down the print speed to 80% of the set speed and reduced the hot end from 235c to 232c and the print was saved and finnished perfectly. Note the placement of supports under arms and spears (see photos).
3D printing tips (for my models): Improper speed/temp ratio can creat layer gaps at high layers. The best print speed can be determined by the nozzle temperature's stability so if you can reduce temp fluctuations on the hot end a better result will be achieved but don't rush it and never use cooling at low hights on a heated bed to prevent warping of the base and stay below 30% fan speed and only on fast printed narrow parts and the very top where the hot end stays on a small area. I always use a raft on a glass heated bed at 74c for PLA and make the raft part of the base by setting seperation and offset to zero this makes a solid foundation and improves bed adhesion for tall prints and reduces filament waste. Infill should always print both directions for every layer this makes walls and top surfaces much cleaner especially at higher layers and adds strength. Supports should be at 55deg. angle or less with a density of about 20% for tall prints and double up on tall supports by adding adjacent collumns. Many failed prints are the result of environmental temperature fluctuations that make the heated bed temp non uniform and this leads to warping and nozzle/print collisions knocking over supports or the model itself.